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from the base, handcrack visible up high
|RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>|
Where you park for Way Rambo Wall is essentially the same jumping off point for this wall. 300 yards prior to hitting the gate at the end of the road, head uphill past some cool looking rock mushrooms to the base of the wall. Wander right until you run into some plaques at the base of several climbs. Alienation is located in a right-facing dihedral with a blocky start. A 7'x7' square boulder resides at the base. From the base you can see the wide crack start 25' up (4.5") and the perfect handcrack finish about 80' up. The wide bit is very positive with decent feet and narrows down the higher you go. Awesome fist jams take you to the base of the handcrack. Perfect hands to the camoflauged two bolt anchor. It's a worthy moderate route.
Green, Yellow & Red Aliens. Camalots; 2 each(.75)&(#1), 3 each(#2) 1 each: (#3), (#3.5),(#4),(#4.5)
The start is blocky and protects with green aliens...
By Ryan Deppen
Apr 18, 2005
Great climb, 5.9 doesn't seem to be on par w/ other grades on this wall. Little bit of everything to be encountered. Seems like it could have gone on. Single 70 meter rope works perfect on this route.
Nov 18, 2013
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
i thought this route was just kind of ok. the first 1/3 is easy scrambling. the crux is pulling on overhanging loose blocks, with pro in the aforementioned blocks, directly above a ledge. you definitely do not want things to go bad here, or they would go really bad. i definitely would not recommend this to somebody who doesn't have some desert climbing experience.
the section above this is fun off fist and OW, but kind of short.