Alien  5.9

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Type:  Trad Consensus:  5.9 [details] FA:  Submitted By:  Anthony Stout on Aug 26, 2007 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (22) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Some rocks in this area are on private property. Property owner requests signed waiver. MORE INFO >>> The remainder are on US Forest Service land. A map detailing the public areas can be obtained from the ranger station en route to the rocks from the village of Tres Piedras. According to Jan Studebaker: "The property line runs from approximately the current east corner by the access gate in a straight line over the top of South Rock to the top middle of the Chicken Heads/Mosaic Wall mount, and from there west down the mount slope to the meadow just south of the Alley climbs. Some of the most popular routes are completely on private property. There are survey markers on the top of South rock (the mysterious aluminum stake stuck in the rock) and on top of the Mosaic rock (most of the time buried in water in a pot hole.)" A new online Tres Piedras Route Guide from LA Mountaineers has been updated with the latest access information, and should be read by all Tres Piedras climbers. Group climb leaders, and Climbing Directors (future or past) should take particular note. From the guide: Access Notes: Tres Piedras climbers should sign the waiver found on this page because the popular South Rock is mostly on private land, as is some of the access to the area. The landowner, requests a waiver, NO fires, no chalk and "please close any gates". In order to nurture greater landowner acceptance of climbers, participants of group climbs are requested to organize quick clean up activities before leaving the area; this should include the climbing area as well as the access roads (trip leaders could supply plastic grocery bags). Small parties should practice "leave no trace" principles. On August 19, 2009 the landowner stated: "Yes I still own the property, and yes I'd still like to have waivers on hand - even or perhaps especially from your organization. Only once in awhile do I have problems with climbers, mostly not picking up after themselves. My biggest gripe is that despite repeated requests, the climbers don't remove protection (edit: colored webbing, shiny hardware) from the climbing routes, which is both lazy and unattractive. Your organization could do me a big favor by doing a group climb and removing the crap that others have left on the various routes so that it is both a pristine part of the landscape, and so that each climber must figure out his own route without relying on the handiwork of others." This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

This route likely has one of the finest 5.9 cruxes anywhere! Just wish the rest of the route was as good as the top! Rope up at the foot of the blocks that lie under a roof and a sketchy looking boulder that looks like it is slightly detached from the rest of the formation (actually, this is where I placed my first piece of pro, as sketchy as the block looked it didn't appear that it was going anywhere and I am sure that I am not the first who has been on it). Once gaining the blocks at the base of the climb, you can slide a #3 Camelot up and right. To your left is a flared crack that does not accept pro well. The next few moves, though not difficult, felt uneasy to me because of the skecho block. Continue up a good crack with excellent pro and through a bulge. Once gaining the bulge you will get to a slightly overhung, smooth headwall with a beautiful crack running through its center. At first glance it appears more difficult than 5.9 but face holds, good position within the crack, and jugs continue to emerge until you meet the bolt anchors.

Location 

At the southeast end of west rock, there is a high pillar that is slightly detached from the rest of the formation. The route starts behind two large pine trees (yes, I know, almost every route here starts behind pine trees!). Look for a stack of blocks below a small roof and a prominent crack above.

Protection 

Single set of Camalots from 0.4 to #3, with a set of nuts, is sufficient. The #3 was placed down low and save the #2 for the top. Bolt anchors.