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Routes in Upper Psychoactive Wall
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Alien Semen Rash S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Baby Model S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Gloom S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Go Back to Colorado S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Mirth S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Psychoactive S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Shut the Fuck Up S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Suck the Nipple S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Under the Influence S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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| Type: | Sport, 35 ft (11 m) |
| FA: | Mike Decker, 2005 |
| Page Views: | 981 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Mike Snyder on Sep 10, 2013 |
| Admins: | Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson |
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Access Issue: RAPTOR CLOSURES: MOBY DICK AREA & NO NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT
Details
RAPTOR CLOSURE: During recent raptor monitoring, an active raptor nest was discovered, prompting a voluntary closure of the Moby Dick climbing area off Forest System Road 18. The named routes and walls affected are Dough Boy, Queequeg’s Coffin, Cetology Wall and Edge of Starbuck. The area is closed immediately through August 15. The nest site will continue to be monitored through the summer. If you have questions, please contact Bonnie Allison, south zone wildlife biologist, at 307-684-7806 or bonnie.allison@usda.gov.
No new route development is allowed until further notice. On July 19, 2019, the US Forest Service issued a notice that it would no longer allow the installation of new bolts or the creation of new climbing routes after manufactured routes were established, then subsequently removed/altered by climbers. In addition, the bolts/fixed anchors on an estimated 50 climbs at Ten Sleep have been affected in some manner that may or may not make them unsafe to climb. The list of altered routes can be found in a drop down on the main, "Ten Sleep Canyon" homepage. The US Forest Service, Powder River Ranger District, is actively working with the local LCO, the Bighorn Climbers' Coalition and Access Fund to develop a sustainable framework for route standards and a Climbing Management Plan for the canyon's future.
No new route development is allowed until further notice. On July 19, 2019, the US Forest Service issued a notice that it would no longer allow the installation of new bolts or the creation of new climbing routes after manufactured routes were established, then subsequently removed/altered by climbers. In addition, the bolts/fixed anchors on an estimated 50 climbs at Ten Sleep have been affected in some manner that may or may not make them unsafe to climb. The list of altered routes can be found in a drop down on the main, "Ten Sleep Canyon" homepage. The US Forest Service, Powder River Ranger District, is actively working with the local LCO, the Bighorn Climbers' Coalition and Access Fund to develop a sustainable framework for route standards and a Climbing Management Plan for the canyon's future.
Description
Climb large pockets and edges on somewhat steep ground. This is the easiest route on the wall and a great but short warmup. (Hangers were removed from the extension for unknown reasons.)
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