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Alien Baby Left 

V5-6

   
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Type: Boulder, 15 feet
Consensus: V5-6 [details]
FA: Matt Hoch
Submitted By: Andrew Ryder on Dec 22, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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Shot taken by Ian Kiersey.

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Description 

This is the left (and original) version of Alien Baby. Start with good jams in the block and fire to the flat triangular sloper. Crank left to a nice crimp and go big for the lip. Fantastic rock and great moves.


Location 

On the first humongous boulder at the Anvils, this is on the backside.


Protection 

Pads and a spot, the landing is not all that great.



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Jeff Peabody on Alien Baby

Jeff Peabody on Alien Baby


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By Colin Cox
Dec 12, 2010

Alien Baby "left" is the original Alien Baby, not a variation(and in my opinion the best problem at the Anvils). "Right" variation was contrived later. Matt Hoch got the F.A. of both lines in 99'or 2000.

By Jason Kevin
Jul 21, 2011

This route starts sitting down! Low left hand with a matching heel hook. Slap up then reach for the huge jug that's about shoulder height. After reaching the diagonal crimp to the right, heel tight where your left hand holds you on. A side pull awaits at your left, then ride your way straight up. I find using a right heel next on the top out helps with the crank over.

By Andrew Ryder
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jul 23, 2011

For the record, most people start at the fingerlocks in the crack. The SDS adds a couple moves but no real difficulty.