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Alien Abduction 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Tom Perkins, Shelly Malkin
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 677
Submitted By: Tom Perkins on Jun 19, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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Pano of climb

Description 

Middle route on the wall ending under the roof.

Protection 

bolts, chain anchors


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By Geoff Unger
From: Moab, UT
Nov 18, 2009

Cool crimpy climbing. Maybe a little easier if you step left at around the third bolt. Climbing it directly straddling the bolts I felt made it solid at the grade.
By nate post
Dec 1, 2013
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

I thought this was a great climb. It was my first On-sight for 5.12 so I'm sure I'm being a little bias but It was much more fun than the far left 5.10 route that I did as a warm up. Climbing through the last three or four bolts to the anchors was a lot of fun. As far as the grade goes I have come so close to on-sighting 3 or 4 different 5.12s in the last month and I have on-sighted several 5.11d's. To me this felt 5.12 but I did it in the cold, 38 degrees and cloudy to be exact so my finger couldn't feel much by the time I reached the anchors and I barely hung on to a couple of the moves while clipping bolts. If I did it in more pleasant temp's It might have felt 11+ but hey my first 12 on-sight so I'm sticking to soft 5.12 rather than hard 5.1l I don't care what anybody else says lol :)
By Jeremy Steck
From: Salt Lake City, UT
May 11, 2015
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

As of 5/15, the large jug before the last bolt desperately needs some glue. It's ready to come out. If I had epoxy with me, I would have fixed it. It would be a shame for this great route to have this hold come off since you grab it with both hands, clip from in and then later stand on it while clipping the anchors.
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