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Middle route on the wall ending under the roof.
bolts, chain anchors
|Comments on Alien Abduction
|By Geoff Unger|
From: Moab, UT
Nov 18, 2009
Cool crimpy climbing. Maybe a little easier if you step left at around the third bolt. Climbing it directly straddling the bolts I felt made it solid at the grade.
|By nate post|
Dec 1, 2013
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a
I thought this was a great climb. It was my first On-sight for 5.12 so I'm sure I'm being a little bias but It was much more fun than the far left 5.10 route that I did as a warm up. Climbing through the last three or four bolts to the anchors was a lot of fun. As far as the grade goes I have come so close to on-sighting 3 or 4 different 5.12 routes in the last month and I have on-sighted several 5.11d's. I think this to me felt 5.12 but I did it in the cold. 38 degrees and cloudy to be exact so my finger couldn't feel much by the time I reached the anchors and I barely hung on to a couple of the moves while clipping bolts. If I did it in more pleasant temp's It might have felt 11+ but hey my first 12 on-sight so I'm sticking to soft 5.12 rather than hard 5.1l I don't care what anybody else says lol :)