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This is a fantastic climb following a corner system on the right/east end of South Rock. The pro can be tricky near the crux but it's placed from a semi-decent stance after that it eases off a little. Really fun and powerful moves.
This is a left facing crack system right of a right facing hand crack. The line goes straight up through a bulge to anchors. It's the first crack you come to after the traverse on the east end of the crag when heading west.
Bolted anchor. Need small cams/nuts/ballnuts for the crux bulge. Yellow and orange TCU's are key pieces.
|By Jason Halladay|
From: Los Alamos, NM
Jun 14, 2010
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b
This line is identifiable by two bulges each with big streaks of bird poop on them. The poop isn't an issue while climbing, though. It looks improbably steep for 10-. Quite fun.
|By Daniel Trugman|
From: Los Alamos, NM / Stanford, CA
Jul 4, 2010
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b
My rack recommendation: single set of cams from a 00 C3/TCU (~.4 in) to #1 camalot (~1.5 in). Extra finger sized pieces (e.g. .3 - .5 camalots) useful. Nuts could certainly be useful, but I didn't place any.
Excellent climb, and certainly appears intimidating from the ground. I didn't feel any less intimidated after climbing it though! Certainly a step up in difficulty and commitment from Eagle's Nest , which is nominally rated the same.