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Ali Babbler 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Ed Esmond 8/00
Page Views: 1,647
Submitted By: lee hansche on Mar 5, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (24)
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Mike making the last clip in the corner...

Description 

Vicious stemming at the crux. Don't be fooled by the easy start. Very technical climbing up a crimpy corner. Ali Babbler is not a typical sport climb.

Start up easy ground to the left of Little Big Man and gain the obvious corner. Climb the corner to the top out.

Location 

Down and left from the central Main Cliff. Just left of Little Big Man (5.11b).

Protection 

5 bolts to anchor.


Photos of Ali Babbler Slideshow Add Photo
one more, i just like these so much :)
one more, i just like these so much :)
Nicole finishing her ONSIGHT!
Nicole finishing her ONSIGHT!
James Otey getting in to the corner....
James Otey getting in to the corner....
nicole, working the foot...
nicole, working the foot...
James stretching out in the middle of the business....
James stretching out in the middle of the business...
Mike willing his feet to stick...
Mike willing his feet to stick...
Tim trying to get the dance into the corner just right.
Tim trying to get the dance into the corner just r...
mike focused as he reaches for the bucket at the top...
mike focused as he reaches for the bucket at the t...
Tricky beta that works!
Tricky beta that works!
Trying to figure it out.
Trying to figure it out.
This is a common sight :)
This is a common sight :)
Adam... like a boss!
Adam... like a boss!

Comments on Ali Babbler Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 3, 2011
By Ladd Raine
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Dec 5, 2007
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

The crux is quite a bit easier it you have small fingers as it opens up a finger lock which is key for pulling up your right leg at the crux.
By NicoleKurth
From: Londonderry, NH
Aug 24, 2008

SO MANY SPIDERS! but i really like the route :]
By NicoleKurth
From: Londonderry, NH
Nov 3, 2008

:] my first 11c! so fun!
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Aug 10, 2009

I led this on trad gear today... fun times... pretty safe really... only a little spookier than clipping the bolts...
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Aug 10, 2009

oh and i cleaned many webs and hairy spiders off of it...
By nhclimber
From: Newmarket, NH
Aug 11, 2009

Great job Lee. Great style and a shame to have it bolted.
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Aug 11, 2009

Thanks man... i must admit ive clipped those bolts many times but it felt good to pass them up this time... this is a fantastic climb relative to its style...
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Aug 11, 2009

nice job, Lee.
NH climber, why exactly is it a shame? I bet 95% at least of people who have climbed it have emjoyed having bolts on it.
By nhclimber
From: Newmarket, NH
Aug 12, 2009

Just my opinion...

I think that the style of ascent is very important. I love clipping bolts as much or more than the next person. But I think that ascents like Lee's are visionary. I don't know the history of the climb or in what style the first ascent went up in. But I know that the rock we have just here in the granite state is finite. I not saying chop or every route should be x or r/x rated, but I feel that some things should be left for the bold and commited. Working somthing on tr then leading it or just enjoying the climbing and movement on an unleadable route is good enough for me. Rumney is rumney and I love the fact that it truly is a world class crag. I just hate to see something defaced that could be with a relative degree of safety for whomever wants it.

Sorry for the ramble but you asked. We can have our bolt wars on the other web site.
-jon
aka nhclimber/meclimber
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Aug 12, 2009

Im just trying to have some fun out there... Threre are enough wars going on out there lets not war with each other on this or other sites... Thanks very much for the kind words jon... Glad to inspire :)
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Aug 17, 2010
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Any hints for this climb? Is the crux getting established in the corner on the small crimps?
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Aug 18, 2010

getting established in the corner is the crux as for beta i could give you lots if i saw you on it but as far as right now id say keep your feet way left and lean on the right wall... if you are pulling down on small holds there is an easier way for sure... i dont think i pull on anything on this one :)
good luck dude!
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Aug 19, 2010
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Thanks Lee, I will try not pulling down on the small holds (which is what I was doing). Time to turn this sport climb into something more like a grovel :)
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Aug 19, 2010

It shouldnt be a grovel dude... it should be a dance... really man if you hit it right it is effortless! work it out with the right feet and it will go easy... if you see me at rumney id be happy to give you play by play beta to unlock the beauty...
By S. Neoh
Aug 19, 2010

Risking sounding like a jerk, I have to say this route looked rather unappealing to me from the ground the last few times I walked by it; slightly chossy and full of spiders. IMHO, there are better 11b to 11d graded routes at Orange Crush and New Wave. For some adventure - bring a small cam and get on the 'forgotten' route of my buddy Tom - Retro Spade. WAY good, no giveme.
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Aug 19, 2010

you dont sound like a jerk and i hope i dont either, but I think how much you like this line depends on how much you like this style... i love this style so i love this route... i dont find retrospade to really fit the conversation since it is sooooooo different in style.... how ever if we were comparing apples to oranges id pick oranges so they can be compared ;)

PS. climb all the routes and you will learn more lessons...
By S. Neoh
Aug 19, 2010

Fair enough. Good points, Lee.
How about Flying Hawaiian, or Luau, or Silver Surfer instead? I bet I have at least one v. good orange among these. :)
By twellman
Aug 20, 2010

I like this route quite a bit, and definitely think it is worth climbing, despite the fact that there are better routes at the grade. There are always better routes at the grade, but that's not gonna stop me from climbing all those wonderful, uncrowded "worse" ones.

And I think the "vicious stemming," as the description says, sets this route apart from others. Flyin Hawaiian offers stemming, but if you're looking for the vicious stuff you'll find it on Ali Babbler.
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Aug 20, 2010

Thanks S.noah, i agree with twellman that Ali offers something that is hard to find at rumney. The routes you mention are the classic rumney corners but if you do only the multi-star classics you miss sooooo much good climbing... I have done all the ones you mentioned and they are all good but Ali will remain on my list of must do corners :)
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Aug 20, 2010
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Hey guys thanks for all the input, I am looking forward to getting back on it. This climb appeals to me because it is the complete opposite of my style so I want to conquer. Also for some reason the climb looks appealing, I know its short with very little exposure but something draws me to it...
By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Campton, NH
Aug 25, 2010
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

The list of comments on this route is longer than the route itself. :)
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Aug 3, 2011
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Final sent this route today after getting on it once the other day after almost a year way from it, I really enjoyed this climb!