Ali Babbler 

The crux is quite a bit easier it you have small fingers as it opens up a finger lock which is key for pulling up your right leg at the crux.

SO MANY SPIDERS! but i really like the route :]

:] my first 11c! so fun!

I led this on trad gear today... fun times... pretty safe really... only a little spookier than clipping the bolts...

oh and i cleaned many webs and hairy spiders off of it...

Great job Lee. Great style and a shame to have it bolted.

Thanks man... i must admit ive clipped those bolts many times but it felt good to pass them up this time... this is a fantastic climb relative to its style...

nice job, Lee.
NH climber, why exactly is it a shame? I bet 95% at least of people who have climbed it have emjoyed having bolts on it.

Just my opinion...

I think that the style of ascent is very important. I love clipping bolts as much or more than the next person. But I think that ascents like Lee's are visionary. I don't know the history of the climb or in what style the first ascent went up in. But I know that the rock we have just here in the granite state is finite. I not saying chop or every route should be x or r/x rated, but I feel that some things should be left for the bold and commited. Working somthing on tr then leading it or just enjoying the climbing and movement on an unleadable route is good enough for me. Rumney is rumney and I love the fact that it truly is a world class crag. I just hate to see something defaced that could be with a relative degree of safety for whomever wants it.

Sorry for the ramble but you asked. We can have our bolt wars on the other web site.
-jon
aka nhclimber/meclimber

Im just trying to have some fun out there... Threre are enough wars going on out there lets not war with each other on this or other sites... Thanks very much for the kind words jon... Glad to inspire :)

Any hints for this climb? Is the crux getting established in the corner on the small crimps?

getting established in the corner is the crux as for beta i could give you lots if i saw you on it but as far as right now id say keep your feet way left and lean on the right wall... if you are pulling down on small holds there is an easier way for sure... i dont think i pull on anything on this one :)
good luck dude!

Thanks Lee, I will try not pulling down on the small holds (which is what I was doing). Time to turn this sport climb into something more like a grovel :)

It shouldnt be a grovel dude... it should be a dance... really man if you hit it right it is effortless! work it out with the right feet and it will go easy... if you see me at rumney id be happy to give you play by play beta to unlock the beauty...

Risking sounding like a jerk, I have to say this route looked rather unappealing to me from the ground the last few times I walked by it; slightly chossy and full of spiders. IMHO, there are better 11b to 11d graded routes at Orange Crush and New Wave. For some adventure - bring a small cam and get on the 'forgotten' route of my buddy Tom - Retro Spade. WAY good, no giveme.

you dont sound like a jerk and i hope i dont either, but I think how much you like this line depends on how much you like this style... i love this style so i love this route... i dont find retrospade to really fit the conversation since it is sooooooo different in style.... how ever if we were comparing apples to oranges id pick oranges so they can be compared ;)

PS. climb all the routes and you will learn more lessons...

Fair enough. Good points, Lee.
How about Flying Hawaiian, or Luau, or Silver Surfer instead? I bet I have at least one v. good orange among these. :)

I like this route quite a bit, and definitely think it is worth climbing, despite the fact that there are better routes at the grade. There are always better routes at the grade, but that's not gonna stop me from climbing all those wonderful, uncrowded "worse" ones.

And I think the "vicious stemming," as the description says, sets this route apart from others. Flyin Hawaiian offers stemming, but if you're looking for the vicious stuff you'll find it on Ali Babbler.

Thanks S.noah, i agree with twellman that Ali offers something that is hard to find at rumney. The routes you mention are the classic rumney corners but if you do only the multi-star classics you miss sooooo much good climbing... I have done all the ones you mentioned and they are all good but Ali will remain on my list of must do corners :)

Hey guys thanks for all the input, I am looking forward to getting back on it. This climb appeals to me because it is the complete opposite of my style so I want to conquer. Also for some reason the climb looks appealing, I know its short with very little exposure but something draws me to it...

The list of comments on this route is longer than the route itself. :)

Final sent this route today after getting on it once the other day after almost a year way from it, I really enjoyed this climb!