Start by climbing the same boulder as for Popular Science, but start a bit to the right and head for the finger crack to the right of Popular Science. Reach up and clip the first bolt, then a funky move gets you off the boulder and into the joys of climbing a conglomerated finger crack. Things soon turn to face climbing, and before you know it you're at the anchors!
Left end of the Sun Wall. Starts off the same boulder as Popular Science (Golden Flake), but a little to the right.
4 bolts, anchors -- The 5.6 "runout" to the anchors that is mentioned in the guidebook really isn't that bad. When you get there, you'll probably be perfectly comfortable not placing any additional protection.
|By Matthew Bishop|
From: Birmingham, Alabama
Nov 10, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a
Might want to stick-clip the second bolt. You risk a ground (boulder) fall otherwise. Hella rusty anchors. Fun climb if you waiting on misty or just looking for a warm up route.