Ale 8 5.12a/b
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Description This route is left of Giant Man and doesn't see much traffic. Climb the slab to big flakes, pull up into a roof with traversing, funkadelic moves. Go up through jugs to one last move for the anchors. You might have to clean your way up, but it is well worth it.
Protection good bolts
By Chris Duca Administrator From: Hinesburg, Vermont Jan 30, 2009
| Named after the popular RRG cola, "Ale 8 One". |
By lee hansche Administrator From: goffstown, nh Apr 19, 2010 rating: 5.12b
| 12 bolts to anchor |
By M Sprague Administrator From: New England Dec 3, 2011
| This would have been a lot better if it was cleaned properly when originally put up, and for many years the first bolt had it's hanger cannibalized so it never got any ascents, but it is a cool line with good moves. The approach slab is a good route in itself that should have a mid anchor at the top if it has not already been put in. |
By Jeffrey LeCours From: New Hampshire Mar 24, 2012
| From the description, it sounds just as fun as its neighbor. With a typical line for Giant Man, is it really just the lichen that keeps people from getting on this or what? |
By M Sprague Administrator From: New England Mar 24, 2012
| It doesn't have the flow of Giant Man, but if cleaned up, it is definitely worth doing. |
By lee hansche Administrator From: goffstown, nh Mar 25, 2012 rating: 5.12b
| Jeff... you and me... Ale 8 and the Mean Lean... lets do it... |
By lee hansche Administrator From: goffstown, nh Jun 20, 2012 rating: 5.12b
| i found it to be pretty tough but with amazing rests between the cruxes... the crux wasnt as fun as the other moves... its a little crumbly and indistinct... all the other rock was solid and aesthetic... i was happy to jam the finger crack to the top but i messed up my index fingers from jamming too hard... there are face holds too but i was too pumped for that :) |
By cliffmama Jun 25, 2012
| Is the lower part of Ale 8 the easy slab/face climb to the immediate left of Cold Feet -> Giant Man? There's an anchor at the top before the roof. It doesn't fit the description of Chicken Heads, so I'm guessing this is the lower part of Ale 8.... Seemed easier than a 5.8, and certainly not a 5.12... maybe 5.6-5.7ish? |
By M Sprague Administrator From: New England Jun 25, 2012
| Yes. Chicken Head starts from lower down and to the left, and is more steep and featured. If Ale 8 now has a mid-anchor for the slab, that is great. 5.7 for the slab sounds about right from memory. |
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