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The Beast Alcove and Refuse Area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Alcove Cracks 
AP Treat 
Beast 666 
Browns Fist 
Lower Refuse 
Reincarnation (aid), aka 0.6 (free) 
Welton's Corner (aka: "By The Way") 
Unsorted Routes:

Alcove Cracks 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
Page Views: 635
Submitted By: lee hansche on Sep 30, 2008
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The left Alcove Crack, Cathedral, NH. (photo by Sc...


These are not really routes on their own but I think they should have their own description because so many people do just these sections with out continuing up. Also because there is so little at Cathedral that stays dry in the rain.

That being said, down and to the left of Recompense there is an alcove that has a roof above housing two nice short cracks ending at an anchor. They both stay dry in steady rain. The right leaning crack that starts on the left is the start to a demanding 5.11+ pitch (The Beast 666).

Alcove Left Crack: (5.10c) Pretty easy to pick it out. A really nice right leaning crack that is a little harder than it looks but it protects well and gets you a workout on a rainy day. If it is dry and you are strong, continue out the roof and in to the off width above at 5.11+.

Alcove Right Crack: (5.10a) This line doesn't look as perfect at first glance but is a technical good time and might work better for you if the more powerful left crack shut you down. Climb the corner with perfect pro and interesting moves to a perplexing finish on to a good stance. Same anchor as above route.


From the start of Refuse scramble up a couple ledges to a nice flat terrace and you can't miss them.


Both routes protect well with small to mid cams and some nuts.

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By Tim J.
From: Loudon, NH
Jul 19, 2009

Beware the bumblebees that live in the left crack just below the pin. They look cuddly and cute but as I discovered today they do actually sting.

By nhclimber
From: Newmarket, NH
Sep 11, 2009
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b

I think the left crack is a .10b and the right is .9+PG

By Anna C.
From: VT
Aug 4, 2010

I agree with a "PG" rating for the crack to the right: Technical 9+ with a committing step-over at the top. I have taken the fall on it and its not bad, just gets the heart rate up ...