Alcove Crack 5.5
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Description This would be a really fun climb if it was clean, but as with many Rumney trad routes, it suffers from under use. It also can be a bit wet which adds to the problem. When dry its a fun jam up moderate crack. But as I said, a bit dirty.
Locate the obvious crack in the corner of the alcove. Jam up a steeper section and on to the lower angle top half. You used to have to belay from a pine tree, but now I'm sure there is an anchor you could borrow from one of the new sport routes in the area.
Location In the corner of the alcove area of Jimmy Cliff. To the right of things as they are etc and to the left of the newly bolted moderates on the right wall. It's a pretty obvious dirty crack.
Protection Regular rack
By doligo
Oct 24, 2009
| As Lee stated, could've been an excellent climb if it was cleaner. At the moment it's dirty and wet - spices up the climb a grade maybe... |
By Jeffrey LeCours
From: New Hampshire
Oct 11, 2012
| Natasha and I climbed this today. We started up the corner and made a fun left heel rockover onto the big ledge where Easter Squall heads up. Surmounting another bulge, we escaped to the right and up the crack left of Things I Never Learned. We stole the bolted anchor above and both REALLY enjoyed the route. It was dry today and not dirty at all! It almost felt like someone cleaned it up... but I doubt that. I'd definitely climb it again. |
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