Alcoa 5.11c
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BETA PHOTO: Stariway to Heaven (L 5.12a) and Alcoa (R 5.11b/c)...
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Current San Diego County Advisories MORE INFO >>>
- Thanks to ACSD for providing the following updates!
- Poway Crag's Ramona Wall and Miller Time Wall have a closure in effect from Dec 15th through August 31st annually dur to nesting raptors
- Glen Cliff has a closure in effect from Dec 15th through August, or if/when it is determined that nesting is not occurring
- Mt Gower also has a closure in effect from Dec 15th through August, or if/when it is determined that nesting is not occurring
- In recent years, Gower has been home to seasonally nesting raptors. To avoid human disturbance of nesting activities, advisories may be in effect from around December through August. Check the ACSD and CNF websites for details.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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The Climb This east facing route is found via a short trail to the right of The Cave formation. It is an outstanding steep lieback on the right edge of the rock. Positive handholds lead to a lieback throw for the top (done static as well). Highly recommended
Protection TR, bolts, see below
Setting up Alcoa (5.11c)
| Climber on Alcoa (5.11c) during the '86 bouldering...
| Liebacking the top for the dynamic finish
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By mschlocker From: San Diego, CA Sep 9, 2007
| I think there has been some controversy on the bolts on this climb (go figure). We were there today and no bolts. We used a grey alien and a medium nut among other gear so set a TR on this. |
By Adam Stackhouse Administrator Sep 10, 2007
| The TR bolts are gone? Why? While nuts did work for years, the subsequent bolt installation worked even better for another several years. They will be replaced. Geez... |
By Brandon R. From: San Mateo, CA Sep 28, 2007
| The bolts have been gone for at least 4 years now. A friend and I tried to patch up the bad chop job a few years ago, but you can still see 'em. It really isn't too hard to set up an anchor with gear, a set of small to medium nuts is all you really need. If you are going to put in bolts though, consider using just one since there is a VERY easy gear placement that could serve as a backup if someone wants it. And really, if you're carrying a rope up there, it's not that hard to carry a few stoppers too. I can think of many other places at Woodson and in SoCal that need a bolt much more than the top of Alcoa. Save your money for something more deserving. |
By Adam Stackhouse Administrator Sep 29, 2007
| Brandon, Thanks for your comments. All of the above is true. I didn't know that the bolts had been gone for that long. Since so many of the Woodson's climbs have TR bolts, I don't think that it's too out of line to have them installed on this also. Carrying some nuts isn't uncalled for, just more or less uncommon. But what interests me more, is what problems at Woodson you thought "deserved" a bolt or two? Send me an email if you want, and we'll see what we can do! |
By Brandon R. From: San Mateo, CA Feb 23, 2008
| Adam, Off the top of my head: the anchor on; the mystery bolt boulder, hard as nails and the pair of arete climbs nearby, cool jerk (not that I'm climbing it), Manuel's Horror. You can get by without bolts on some of these, but they're way more of a pain in the butt to set up/get off than Alcoa is. All and all though, I just don't want to see more chopped bolts up there. I do appreciate your interest in maintaining the area though. |
By tom donnelly Oct 19, 2009
| I've only done the dyno, but I think people have managed to continue to lieback up the arete further up. |
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