Alchemy  5.12-

2,320 page views Good page?

Type:  Trad, 90 feet Consensus:  5.12- [details] FA:  F.F.A. Jeff Wenger (some pre-placed gear), 8/06 F.F.A. placing all gear on lead, David Potter, 11/06 Submitted By:  Max Tepfer on Aug 2, 2009 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Max Tepfer about to flail 'n bail.
Photo by Thomas...

Add Photo  Add Comment    Printer View

SEASONAL CLOSURE TAKES EFFECT 1/15/13!! No top access - private land MORE INFO >>> SEASONAL CLOSURE TAKES EFFECT 1/15/13!! The golden eagle nesting season is underway and the closure begins tomorrow, 1/15/2013. Last year, climbers demonstrated a 100% compliance rate with the voluntary test closure, and we need to make sure to repeat that showing. Unlike last year, this is a mandatory, not voluntary closure for all users including climbers and hikers. This means the BLM will be monitoring the territory and has the power to issue tickets for entering the closure area, which includes all of the crags and the approach trails. The soonest the closure could be partially lifted is May 15th, depending on the nesting scenarios at that time. Please spread the word, climb elsewhere until further notice! NO TOP ACCESS - PRIVATE LAND Taken verbatim from a post by Jeff Wenger on the topic: "The climbing and part of the approach at Trout Creek sit on a fuzzy boundary of BLM and private land. The land on the mesa above the columns is part of a huge piece of property owned by the original settlers of Gateway, the Vibbert family. It is used to graze cattle and for several months every year as a pay-to-play bird hunting “preserve”. The property also contains an old homestead, a large productive farm, ponds, creeks, 4x4 roads, and an amazing solitary gravesite on the canyon rim between the crag and the campground. What we have here is an old sprawling property with several spotty boundaries on its BLM borders. The family had some BIG reservations about people being up there, mostly because they assumed climbers would want to cross their property and of course they had concerns about liability. Why have things changed? By NOT attempting to access the crag over private property, we’ve built trust with the before-weary Vibberts. They feel much better about us being in the area (and that REALLY matters in this case) compared to their initial, understandable reservations. So long as we continue to respect their land by NOT using it to access the cliff, more climbers shouldn’t be a big deal…and more climbers is what posting will bring. I had the recent opportunity to meet with the guy who manages the hunting preserve for the Vibberts. He mentioned that he checks-in on the crag (what the family calls ‘dry island’) and has been very impressed with the fact that people have been respectful of the land. The Vibbert family loves the area and appreciates the fact others do too (even if the climbing is abrasive and physical!!). They’re thankful we take the time to walk in from the campground and that we encourage others to only access the climbing from below (I.E. lead rather than walk around to TR/rap ). Since neither the county nor the Vibberts are 100% clear on the boundary lines with the BLM and since they once owned all of what is now Gateway, the positive relations we have established are key for long-term access." This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

Rattly fingers/liebacking to a cruxy transition into fingers gets you to the rest. From there, stemming and fingerlocks will take you up to the crux stemming sequence. Finish with 40+ feet of steep, juggy 5.10 climbing to the chains.

It's worth noting that many have awkward experiences the first time they climb to the chains. The chains are very far out to the left of the upper dihedral and if you stem up to the same level as the chains, you might be able to clip them from an ok, but exciting stance in the corner. The sequence their location was intended to force follows a horizontal out to the left arete and up the arete. It is exposed, fantastic, and a much better option.

Location 

The crack to the right of Gold Rush

Protection 

Lots of thin gear up to BD .75. Small and medium stoppers protect the crux moves well if you can figure out how to hang out and place them.

Photos of Alchemy Slideshow

Add Photo

The whole line. Alchemy cuts right at the horizon...	Wally on the send.	starting up