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DescriptionAlbion Basin is one of the most beautiful areas in the entire wasatch. Spectacular views of Devils Castle, Mt Wolverine, Tuscarora, etc etc. A plethora of wildlife, wild flowers, and rock make this a superb summer climbing destination. Please walk lightly in this area. I can see access becoming a major issue if the laws of the land are not obeyed. Most of the climbing consists of quartzite that can be ascended and descended with a single rope. There are also some nice limestone sport routes within in a close proximity to the southeastern most campground. With the exception of the devils caste routes (listed under devils castle) all routes are a single pitch. With very few exceptions the routes are primarily bolt protected. However, multi-pitch mixed gear (trad/sport) routes exist on devils castle. Getting ThereDrive up little cottonwood, through a gate guarded by a nice person giving out trail maps. continue up the canyon, little cottonwood continues and eventually turns to dirt. Follow the dirt road until it ends at a campground directly below devils castle. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Albion Basin:
Portable Darkness 5.9+ PG13 Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 600 feet, Grade II Devil's Castle
The Kind 5.10a Sport, 1 pitch, 99 feet Cecret Lake : Green Stash Wall
Black Streak 5.10a/b PG13 Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches, 800 feet, Grade III Devil's Castle
Cosmic Web 5.10b Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet Cosmic Web Wall
The Virus 5.10b Sport, 1 pitch, 45 feet Cecret Lake : Whipper Wall
The Undersir Abules 5.10b Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet Cecret Lake : Creekside Wall
Cough Your Off 5.10b Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet Cecret Lake : Green Stash Wall
Bong Water Drip 5.10c Sport, 1 pitch, 65 feet Cecret Lake : Cecret Stash
Junk Head 5.10+ Sport, 65 feet Cecret Lake : Creekside Wall
Girls on Film 5.10+ Sport, 70 feet Cecret Lake : Creekside Wall
Horns Of Satan 5.10+ Trad, Alpine, 8 pitches, 750 feet, Grade III Devil's Castle
Shadow of the Blade 5.10d PG13 Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches, 750 feet, Grade III Devil's Castle
Soul Asylum 5.10d Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet Cosmic Web Wall
You're Nicked, Who's Next? 5.10d Sport, 1 pitch, 45 feet Cecret Lake : Whipper Wall
Anti Hero's 5.10d Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet Cecret Lake : Creekside Wall
Evil Eye 5.11a PG13 Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches, 700 feet, Grade III Devil's Castle
Brain Bomb 5.11- Sport, 1 pitch, 45 feet Cecret Lake : Whipper Wall
Gothic Pillar 5.11a/b PG13 Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 750 feet, Grade III Devil's Castle
Ride the Lightning 5.11 Sport, 60 feet Cecret Lake : Whipper Wall
Toxic Narcotic 5.11+ Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet Cecret Lake : Whipper Wall
Featured Route For Albion Basin
Toxic Narcotic 5.11+ UT : Wasatch Range : ... : Whipper Wall
This is the route that keeps on giving. Start to the left of Ride the Lightning (prominent arete). Pass 2 bolts to a good rest, from here good jugs and a few sidepulls bring you through some wild steepness. Reach and grab them jugs, they're are good!...[more] Browse More Classics in UT
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