Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Albion Basin

Select Area...
Cecret Lake 
Cosmic Web Wall 
Devil's Castle 
Devil's Tongue 

Albion Basin Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 40.57792, -111.6194 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 23,945
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Shaun Greene on Jul 29, 2007
Forecast:
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

Please respect this beautiful area. Stay on established trails and do not trample any vegetation

Description 

Albion Basin is one of the most beautiful areas in the entire wasatch. Spectacular views of Devils Castle, Mt Wolverine, Tuscarora, etc etc. A plethora of wildlife, wild flowers, and rock make this a superb summer climbing destination. Please walk lightly in this area. I can see access becoming a major issue if the laws of the land are not obeyed. Most of the climbing consists of quartzite that can be ascended and descended with a single rope. There are also some nice limestone sport routes within in a close proximity to the southeastern most campground. With the exception of the devils caste routes (listed under devils castle) all routes are a single pitch. With very few exceptions the routes are primarily bolt protected. However, multi-pitch mixed gear (trad/sport) routes exist on devils castle.

Getting There 

Drive up little cottonwood, through a gate guarded by a nice person giving out trail maps. continue up the canyon, little cottonwood continues and eventually turns to dirt. Follow the dirt road until it ends at a campground directly below devils castle.

Climbing Season



Weather station 1.7 miles from here

62 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',13],['2 Stars',33],['1 Star',15],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',2],['5.8',4],['5.9',11],['5.10',35],['5.11',10],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Albion Basin

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Albion Basin:
Stinky Stash   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 55'   Cecret Lake : Stinky Stash Wall
Portable Darkness   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13     Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 600'   Devil's Castle
The Kind   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 99'   Cecret Lake : Green Stash Wall
Black Streak   5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13     Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches, 800'   Devil's Castle
Cough Your Off   5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Cecret Lake : Green Stash Wall
Cardinal Sin   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 65'   Cecret Lake : Creekside Wall
Girls on Film   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 70'   Cecret Lake : Creekside Wall
Horns Of Satan   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, Alpine, 8 pitches, 750'   Devil's Castle
Anti Hero's   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Cecret Lake : Creekside Wall
Shadow of the Blade   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13     Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches, 750'   Devil's Castle
Evil Eye   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13     Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches, 700'   Devil's Castle
Gothic Miller   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, Alpine, 2 pitches, 220'   Devil's Castle
Gothic Pillar   5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13     Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 750'   Devil's Castle
Toxic Narcotic   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Cecret Lake : Whipper Wall
UnGoverenable Force   5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Cecret Lake : Whipper Wall
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Albion Basin

Featured Route For Albion Basin
Rock Climbing Photo: Sam Miller about to flash Toxic Narcotic

Toxic Narcotic 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a  UT : Wasatch Range : ... : Whipper Wall
This is the route that keeps on giving. Start to the left of Ride the Lightning (prominent arete). Pass 2 bolts to a good rest, from here good jugs and a few sidepulls bring you through some wild steepness. Reach and grab them jugs, they're are good!...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

Photos of Albion Basin Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The Devil's garden is so nice in July
The Devil's garden is so nice in July
Rock Climbing Photo: Endangered Pica
Endangered Pica
Rock Climbing Photo: by whiper wall
by whiper wall
Rock Climbing Photo: A view of mt superior near sunrise
A view of mt superior near sunrise
Rock Climbing Photo: green stash wall
green stash wall
Rock Climbing Photo: Some of the wildlife commonly encountered in this ...
Some of the wildlife commonly encountered in this ...
Rock Climbing Photo: whiper wall
whiper wall
Rock Climbing Photo: mike bird & Luke Douglas on cecret stash wall
mike bird & Luke Douglas on cecret stash wall
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down canyon from the cosmic web wall.
Looking down canyon from the cosmic web wall.
Rock Climbing Photo: Scenic Shot on Approach
Scenic Shot on Approach
Rock Climbing Photo: stinky stash wall
stinky stash wall

Comments on Albion Basin Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!