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Albion Basin

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Albion Basin  


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Location: 40.57792, -111.6194 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Shaun Greene on Jul 29, 2007
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Please respect this beautiful area. Stay on established trails and do not trample any vegetation

Description 

Albion Basin is one of the most beautiful areas in the entire wasatch. Spectacular views of Devils Castle, Mt Wolverine, Tuscarora, etc etc. A plethora of wildlife, wild flowers, and rock make this a superb summer climbing destination. Please walk lightly in this area. I can see access becoming a major issue if the laws of the land are not obeyed. Most of the climbing consists of quartzite that can be ascended and descended with a single rope. There are also some nice limestone sport routes within in a close proximity to the southeastern most campground. With the exception of the devils caste routes (listed under devils castle) all routes are a single pitch. With very few exceptions the routes are primarily bolt protected. However, multi-pitch mixed gear (trad/sport) routes exist on devils castle.

Getting There 

Drive up little cottonwood, through a gate guarded by a nice person giving out trail maps. continue up the canyon, little cottonwood continues and eventually turns to dirt. Follow the dirt road until it ends at a campground directly below devils castle.

Climbing Season



Weather station 1.7 miles from here

62 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',13],['2 Stars',32],['1 Star',16],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',2],['5.8',3],['5.9',10],['5.10',37],['5.11',10],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Albion Basin:
The Kind   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 99'   Cecret Lake : Green Stash Wall
Black Streak   5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13     Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches, 800'   Devil's Castle
Cosmic Web   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Cosmic Web Wall
Cough Your Off   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Cecret Lake : Green Stash Wall
The Virus   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 45'   Cecret Lake : Whipper Wall
Bong Water Drip   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 65'   Cecret Lake : Cecret Stash
Junk Head   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Sport, 65'   Cecret Lake : Creekside Wall
Girls on Film   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Sport, 70'   Cecret Lake : Creekside Wall
Cardinal Sin   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Sport, 65'   Cecret Lake : Creekside Wall
Horns Of Satan   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, Alpine, 8 pitches, 750'   Devil's Castle
The Vaporizer   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Cecret Lake : Cecret Stash
You're Nicked, Who's Next?   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 45'   Cecret Lake : Whipper Wall
Shadow of the Blade   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13     Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches, 750'   Devil's Castle
Anti Hero's   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Cecret Lake : Creekside Wall
Gothic Miller   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, Alpine, 2 pitches, 220'   Devil's Castle
Evil Eye   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13     Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches, 700'   Devil's Castle
Gothic Pillar   5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13     Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 750'   Devil's Castle
Ride the Lightning   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Sport, 60'   Cecret Lake : Whipper Wall
Toxic Narcotic   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Cecret Lake : Whipper Wall
UnGoverenable Force   5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Cecret Lake : Whipper Wall
Browse More Classics in Albion Basin

Featured Route For Albion Basin
Shadow of the Blade route location

Shadow of the Blade 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13  UT : Wasatch Range : ... : Devil's Castle
P1 - Ascend the compact face on good rock to a big ledge. (5.10d)P2 - The next pitch is slightly overhanging for 90' until the angle kicks back. Look for ledges on the right...big holds. (5.10)P3 - Climb a steep slab traversing left to a short overhanging hand crack. Protect this and the crack above with cams. (5.9)P4 - Short easy, scrambling leads to a belay next to a prominent dead tree...loose rubble on ledges. Be careful.P5 - Bolt protected face leads 90' to a belay ledge. (5.7 or 5.8)P6 - D...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

Photos of Albion Basin Slideshow Add Photo
Endangered Pica
Endangered Pica
by whiper wall
by whiper wall
A view of mt superior near sunrise
A view of mt superior near sunrise
Some of the wildlife commonly encountered in this ...
Some of the wildlife commonly encountered in this ...
Looking down canyon from the cosmic web wall.
Looking down canyon from the cosmic web wall.
whiper wall
whiper wall
green stash wall
green stash wall
mike bird & Luke Douglas on cecret stash wall
mike bird & Luke Douglas on cecret stash wall
stinky stash wall
stinky stash wall
Scenic Shot on Approach
Scenic Shot on Approach

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