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Albion Basin is one of the most beautiful areas in the entire wasatch. Spectacular views of Devils Castle, Mt Wolverine, Tuscarora, etc etc. A plethora of wildlife, wild flowers, and rock make this a superb summer climbing destination. Please walk lightly in this area. I can see access becoming a major issue if the laws of the land are not obeyed. Most of the climbing consists of quartzite that can be ascended and descended with a single rope. There are also some nice limestone sport routes within in a close proximity to the southeastern most campground. With the exception of the devils caste routes (listed under devils castle) all routes are a single pitch. With very few exceptions the routes are primarily bolt protected. However, multi-pitch mixed gear (trad/sport) routes exist on devils castle.
Drive up little cottonwood, through a gate guarded by a nice person giving out trail maps. continue up the canyon, little cottonwood continues and eventually turns to dirt. Follow the dirt road until it ends at a campground directly below devils castle.
62 Total Routes
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Albion Basin:
You're Nicked, Who's Next? 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport, 1 pitch, 45' Cecret Lake : Whipper Wall
Featured Route For Albion Basin
Black Streak 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13 UT : Wasatch Range : ... : Devil's Castle
Fun, 6-7 pitch alpine "sport" route. The first bolted route on the North Face of Devil's Castle and due to its inclusion in the Ruckman Guide, the most popular. Subsequently, it is also the cleanest and currently the one most free of loose rock. Pitch #1: Face (~9 bolts) climb up the black water streak to a ledge and three bolt anchor. This was earlier protected by the gear friendly horizontals. 5.10a, 130'.Pitch #2: Crux pitch goes through a roof and to the right to another ledge (w...[more] Browse More Classics in UT
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