Albion Basin is one of the most beautiful areas in the entire wasatch. Spectacular views of Devils Castle, Mt Wolverine, Tuscarora, etc etc. A plethora of wildlife, wild flowers, and rock make this a superb summer climbing destination. Please walk lightly in this area. I can see access becoming a major issue if the laws of the land are not obeyed. Most of the climbing consists of quartzite that can be ascended and descended with a single rope. There are also some nice limestone sport routes within in a close proximity to the southeastern most campground. With the exception of the devils caste routes (listed under devils castle) all routes are a single pitch. With very few exceptions the routes are primarily bolt protected. However, multi-pitch mixed gear (trad/sport) routes exist on devils castle.
Drive up little cottonwood, through a gate guarded by a nice person giving out trail maps. continue up the canyon, little cottonwood continues and eventually turns to dirt. Follow the dirt road until it ends at a campground directly below devils castle.
Browse More Classics in Albion Basin
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Albion Basin:
Featured Route For Albion Basin
Toxic Narcotic 5.11+ UT : Wasatch Range : ... : Whipper Wall
This is the route that keeps on giving. Start to the left of Ride the Lightning (prominent arete). Pass 2 bolts to a good rest, from here good jugs and a few sidepulls bring you through some wild steepness. Reach and grab them jugs, they're are good!...[more] Browse More Classics in UT