Albion Basin Rock Climbing
|Please respect this beautiful area. Stay on established trails and do not trample any vegetation|
Albion Basin is one of the most beautiful areas in the entire wasatch. Spectacular views of Devils Castle, Mt Wolverine, Tuscarora, etc etc. A plethora of wildlife, wild flowers, and rock make this a superb summer climbing destination. Please walk lightly in this area. I can see access becoming a major issue if the laws of the land are not obeyed. Most of the climbing consists of quartzite that can be ascended and descended with a single rope. There are also some nice limestone sport routes within in a close proximity to the southeastern most campground. With the exception of the devils caste routes (listed under devils castle) all routes are a single pitch. With very few exceptions the routes are primarily bolt protected. However, multi-pitch mixed gear (trad/sport) routes exist on devils castle.
Drive up little cottonwood, through a gate guarded by a nice person giving out trail maps. continue up the canyon, little cottonwood continues and eventually turns to dirt. Follow the dirt road until it ends at a campground directly below devils castle.
Weather station 1.7 miles from here
62 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',13],['2 Stars',33],['1 Star',15],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Albion Basin
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Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Albion Basin:
Featured Route For Albion Basin
Shadow of the Blade 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
: Wasatch Range
: ... : Devil's Castle
P1 - Ascend the compact face on good rock to a big ledge. (5.10d)P2 - The next pitch is slightly overhanging for 90' until the angle kicks back. Look for ledges on the right...big holds. (5.10)P3 - Climb a steep slab traversing left to a short overhanging hand crack. Protect this and the crack above with cams. (5.9)P4 - Short easy, scrambling leads to a belay next to a prominent dead tree...loose rubble on ledges. Be careful.P5 - Bolt protected face leads 90' to a belay ledge. (5.7 or 5.8)P6 - D...[more] Browse More Classics in UT