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Albion Basin
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Cecret Lake 
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Albion Basin 


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Administrators: Kristine Hoffman, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Shaun Greene on Jul 29, 2007

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Please respect this beautiful area. Stay on established trails and do not trample any vegetation


A view of mt superior near sunrise

Description 

Albion Basin is one of the most beautiful areas in the entire wasatch. Spectacular views of Devils Castle, Mt Wolverine, Tuscarora, etc etc. A plethora of wildlife, wild flowers, and rock make this a superb summer climbing destination. Please walk lightly in this area. I can see access becoming a major issue if the laws of the land are not obeyed. Most of the climbing consists of quartzite that can be ascended and descended with a single rope. There are also some nice limestone sport routes within in a close proximity to the southeastern most campground. With the exception of the devils caste routes (listed under devils castle) all routes are a single pitch. With very few exceptions the routes are primarily bolt protected. However, multi-pitch mixed gear (trad/sport) routes exist on devils castle.


Getting There 

Drive up little cottonwood, through a gate guarded by a nice person giving out trail maps. continue up the canyon, little cottonwood continues and eventually turns to dirt. Follow the dirt road until it ends at a campground directly below devils castle.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Albion Basin:
Portable Darkness   5.9+ PG13     Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 600 feet, Grade II   Devil's Castle
The Kind   5.10a     Sport, 1 pitch, 99 feet   Cecret Lake : Green Stash Wall
Black Streak   5.10a/b PG13     Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches, 800 feet, Grade III   Devil's Castle
Cosmic Web   5.10b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet   Cosmic Web Wall
The Virus   5.10b     Sport, 1 pitch, 45 feet   Cecret Lake : Whipper Wall
The Undersir Abules   5.10b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet   Cecret Lake : Creekside Wall
Cough Your Off   5.10b     Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet   Cecret Lake : Green Stash Wall
Bong Water Drip   5.10c     Sport, 1 pitch, 65 feet   Cecret Lake : Cecret Stash
Junk Head   5.10+     Sport, 65 feet   Cecret Lake : Creekside Wall
Girls on Film   5.10+     Sport, 70 feet   Cecret Lake : Creekside Wall
Horns Of Satan   5.10+     Trad, Alpine, 8 pitches, 750 feet, Grade III   Devil's Castle
Shadow of the Blade   5.10d PG13     Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches, 750 feet, Grade III   Devil's Castle
Soul Asylum   5.10d     Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet   Cosmic Web Wall
You're Nicked, Who's Next?   5.10d     Sport, 1 pitch, 45 feet   Cecret Lake : Whipper Wall
Anti Hero's   5.10d     Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet   Cecret Lake : Creekside Wall
Evil Eye   5.11a PG13     Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches, 700 feet, Grade III   Devil's Castle
Brain Bomb   5.11-     Sport, 1 pitch, 45 feet   Cecret Lake : Whipper Wall
Gothic Pillar   5.11a/b PG13     Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 750 feet, Grade III   Devil's Castle
Ride the Lightning   5.11     Sport, 60 feet   Cecret Lake : Whipper Wall
Toxic Narcotic   5.11+     Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet   Cecret Lake : Whipper Wall
Browse More Classics in Albion Basin

Featured Route For Albion Basin
Sam Miller about to flash Toxic Narcotic

Toxic Narcotic 5.11+  UT : Wasatch Range : ... : Whipper Wall
This is the route that keeps on giving. Start to the left of Ride the Lightning (prominent arete). Pass 2 bolts to a good rest, from here good jugs and a few sidepulls bring you through some wild steepness. Reach and grab them jugs, they're are good!...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT


Photos of Albion Basin Slideshow Add Photo
Some of the wildlife commonly encountered in this area

Some of the wildlife commonly encountered in this ...

Looking down canyon from the cosmic web wall.

Looking down canyon from the cosmic web wall.

by the green stash wall

by the green stash wall

green stash wall

green stash wall

stinky stash wall

stinky stash wall

whiper wall

whiper wall

by whiper wall

by whiper wall

mike bird & Luke Douglas on cecret stash wall

mike bird & Luke Douglas on cecret stash wall

Endangered Pica

Endangered Pica