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Alberta

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Alberta Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 50.9307, -114.873 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 44,576
Administrators: Tom Gnyra, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide), Emily Roeben
Submitted By: Peter Spindloe on Apr 15, 2007
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You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
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Description 

Alberta is the epicenter (or epicentre) of Canadian Alpine climbing with countless snow and ice covered peaks, glaciers and famous north faces. Alberta is also famous for some of the best ice climbing in the world.

Fortunately, Alberta is also well rounded and has sport and trad rock climbing a-plenty. The limestone and quartzite in the river canyons in the Canmore area probably have Canada's greatest concentrations of sport routes. Trad cragging is perhaps a little more limited than some other areas as the limestone of famous peaks like Yamnuska have great history and great routes but less solid rock; the climbing is more adventurous than a granite-trained tradster might be used to.

Getting There 

Calgary provides easy access to Canmore, Banff, Lake Louise and all of the surrounding areas. Edmonton provides access if your destinations are further north.

Guiding Services 

Yamnuksa Mountaineering

A long-established service employing well-known and highly reputed guides. A progression of courses, semester sessions, guides-for-hire, corporate events -- a well rounded offering.

Climbing Season



Weather station 9.4 miles from here

705 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',117],['3 Stars',226],['2 Stars',264],['1 Star',33],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',24],['5.7',23],['5.8',25],['5.9',47],['5.10',229],['5.11',126],['5.12',65],['5.13',23],['>=5.14',5],['',0],['<=V1',4],['V2-3',14],['V4-5',10],['V6-7',7],['V8-9',6],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',2],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Alberta

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Alberta:
Louise Falls   WI4-5     Ice, 3 pitches, 350'   Lake Louise : Lake Louise Ice
Polar Circus   WI5     Ice, 9 pitches, 2300'   Icefields Parkway : Weeping Wall Area
Moonlight   WI4     Ice, 2 pitches   Kananaskis : Evan Thomas Creek
Nemesis   WI6     Ice, Alpine, 4 pitches, 525'   Banff National Park : Stanley Headwall
The Sorcerer   WI5     Trad, Ice, 4 pitches, 700'   North Ghost
Centre Ice Bulge Direct   WI3     Ice, Alpine, 5 pitches, 1000'   Valley of the Ten Peaks : Mount Fay
The Professor Falls   WI4     Ice, 6 pitches, 900'   Mt. Rundle : Professor Falls Area
Lower Weeping Wall   WI4-5     Ice, 3 pitches, 550'   Icefields Parkway : Weeping Wall Area
Rainbow Serpent   WI6     Ice, 2 pitches, 400'   Devil's Gap : Phantom Crag
East Ridge   5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a Mod. Snow     Trad, Snow, Alpine, 5000'   Jasper National Park : Mt. Edith Cavell
Brewer Buttress   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, Alpine, 13 pitches   Banff National Park : Castle Mountain
Joy   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 10 pitches, 2000'   Kananaskis : Mount Indefatigable
NE Buttress   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13     Trad, 11 pitches, 1500'   Bow Valley : Ha Ling (formerly Chinaman'...
Coire Dubh Integrale   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b WI3 Easy Snow     Trad, Ice, Snow, 6 pitches, 2000'   Bow Valley : Loder Peak
North Face - Chouinard/Beckey/Doody   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Mod. Snow     Trad, Snow, Alpine, 12 pitches, 5000'   Jasper National Park : Mt. Edith Cavell
Aftonroe   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 8 pitches   Mt. Cory : Guides Rock
East Ridge   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Mod. Snow PG13     Snow, Alpine, 10 pitches, 5000'   Valley of the Ten Peaks : Mt. Temple
South Face   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, 350'   Sentinel Pass : Grand Sentinel
Wicked Gravity   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 88'   The Back of The Lake : Outhouse Wall
Meathooks   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Grassi Lakes : Meathooks Area
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Alberta

Featured Route For Alberta
Rock Climbing Photo: Louise Falls, spring 2011

Louise Falls WI4-5  North America : Canada : ... : Lake Louise Ice
Louise Falls is the gem of the area and has the crowds to prove it. Expect company on weekends. The climb is often very wide, making different lines possible. The crux final pillar(s) can be kicked out casual WI4 or dead vertical hard WI5.Beware of the daggers while on route!P1-2 70m: Climb up to the center belay cave from the ground in one long pitch if possible. Some folks break this up into two pitches and build a belay in the safest looking spot. Mind the overhead hazard.P3 30m: The c...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Photos of Alberta Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Above the morning fog.    On the Athabasca Glacier...
Above the morning fog. On the Athabasca Glacier...
Rock Climbing Photo: North Face of Athabasca
North Face of Athabasca
Rock Climbing Photo: Tonquin valley at sunset, Jasper NP.
Tonquin valley at sunset, Jasper NP.
Rock Climbing Photo: Gavriel J. bouldering in Tonquin Valley. Photograp...
Gavriel J. bouldering in Tonquin Valley. Photograp...
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up at the East Ridge of Mt. Temple, one of...
Looking up at the East Ridge of Mt. Temple, one of...
Rock Climbing Photo: The Remparts , Tanquin Valley.  Wild flowers and t...
The Remparts , Tanquin Valley. Wild flowers and t...
Rock Climbing Photo: The south face of Mt. Temple showing the east ridg...
BETA PHOTO: The south face of Mt. Temple showing the east ridg...
Rock Climbing Photo: You got to love this place, even the routes that I...
You got to love this place, even the routes that I...
Rock Climbing Photo: Standing on the Athabasca Glacier with Mt. Androme...
Standing on the Athabasca Glacier with Mt. Androme...
Rock Climbing Photo: Bouldering in Tonquin Valley, Ramparts in the back...
Bouldering in Tonquin Valley, Ramparts in the back...
Rock Climbing Photo: On thee Athabasca Glacier.
On thee Athabasca Glacier.
Rock Climbing Photo: Calgary airport
Calgary airport
Rock Climbing Photo: North Face of Athabasca on the approach taking the...
BETA PHOTO: North Face of Athabasca on the approach taking the...
Rock Climbing Photo: Athabasca North Face
Athabasca North Face

Comments on Alberta Add Comment
Show which comments
By Joseph Stover
From: Batesville, AR
Nov 9, 2007
What is the climbing like around Edmonton? I am a warm weather dude, so can I handle it? How is access from the city... drive times for day cragging? Is there a full range from steep sport to long well protected trad of all grades?

There wasn't an International forum, so i'll see if anyone catches this and has info.

Thanks!
By Peter Spindloe
From: North Vancouver, BC
Nov 12, 2007
This site has relatively few contributors from Alberta, especially from the Edmonton area. I wish I could help you, but perhaps the best thing will be to check out the local gyms and shops. It would be great if you could post what you find. The climbing I've done in Alberta has been great and it would be fantastic to see more contributed to this site.
By James Steinhoff
Aug 20, 2012
Just found out about this site. I don't think many Canadians know it exists. I'm moving back to Alberta in a few months and will spread the word about Mountain Project /contribute data about the Banff area routes.

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