Alberta Falls Wall
||Trad, 5 pitches, 480'
|Original: || YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]|
|FA: ||Josh Gross, Madoline Gross, Adam Baxter, 5/17/11|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Season: ||Spring, Summer, Fall|
|Page Views: ||1,279|
|Submitted By: ||Josh Gross on Jul 13, 2012|
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Alberta Falls Wall. Zoom in for route location.
P1. Start up short crack on the left, traverse 30 feet right to base of the roof system. A 0.4 BD is nice. 5.8R. Don't combine p1 and p2 due to rope drag!
P2. Pull through roof crack to a ledge belay with a fixed pin. Belay using a 0.3, 0.4, and 0.75 Camalot. 5.11.
P3. Climb a nice, steep splitter to pod and go left. Once on the slab above splitter, head up and right to tree belay. 5.10+.
P4. Head up corner behind tree then head right. Face climb over a short bulge via a left-facing flake. 5.8R.
P5. Climb up left-facing chinmey/crack to a tree belay. 5.8+.
Top out by scrambling up and left via 4th class ramp.
Descent: Scramble back to top of 5th pitch. Rap.
1st anchor tree, 30 meter.
2nd anchor boulder/tree, 32 meters.
3rd anchor tree 60 meter to ground.
This route climbs the splitters on the center walls left side.
Double 0 - 2# Camalots. An extra 0.5 #Camalot is nice!
3# Camalot, 4# Camalot, micro-large wires, 8 runners, extra webbing for descent anchors.
2 60 meter ropes.
From: Estes Park, CO
Aug 8, 2012
Pitches 2 and 3 are stellar, steep crack climbing. 3+ stars for those pitches alone. The rest of the route is moderate and not of the same quality. With its short pitches and in your face (re: splitter!) cruxes, this route is reminiscent of Eldo with a little granite flavor. The gear is excellent where you want it and the climbing moderate where its not. Overall, a worthy outing. Thanks for finding this, Josh!