This is a nice sunny slab (South exposure, like Humphrey's, makes this one of the earlier climbing areas to "thaw" in the spring) with some cool routes.
Most of the routes start from a ledge that is about 30 ft above the top of the talus. This ledge is accessed from the right side of the cliff. The access moves are on slabby rock which is often covered with leaves and/or pine needles; some will prefer a rope here. Once established on the ledge one can move fairly freely, but belayers should be cognizant of the drop off and tie in.
NOTE: Part, if not all, of the approach and climbing is on private property. Needless to say, treat the land gently, climb quietly, and climb carefully.
You can view the slab from a large, sandy pull-out which is 0.9 miles south on Rt 113 (and about 0.1 - 0.2 Mi south of a brown cottage on the pond).
Park on Rt 16, a few miles south of Conway Village and the "Kanc", and 1.0 mile south of where Rt 113 branches left (south). On the right (north) is a pull-out. Park near the "Conway end" of this and, starting at a 3ft high boulder, go straight into the woods (up steeply at first). In 5-8 min you'll intersect a "woods road", turn right and follow this to a large boulder on the left with cairn(s) marking the hiker's path. Follow this through a swampy area and gain the dry land beyond. Now, 3 choices:
1) Diagonal off right and though the huge boulders, then up to the right side of the cliff and the scramble ledge to the ledge where most climbs start.
2) Continue on the hiker's path which leads to the open talus field (some cairns), up this about 1/2 way and then cut right to the steep slope ABOVE the huge boulders mentioned in #1, hike on steep ground, slabbing across just below the base of the cliff to the far right and the scramble.
3) Continue on the hiker's path to the summit. Enjoy the view and sign the register. Find the fixed, double-bolt anchor at the top of "Reeling in the Fears" and rap with 2 ropes. (Don't believe the " 105 ft" indicated by some guidebook(s) !) This approach is, of course, much easier if, at one time, you've climbed the route from below and know where the anchors are in relationship to the summit!
Weather station 6.2 miles from here
5 Total Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
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Latest Regional Forum Messages
By john strand
From: southern colo
Feb 8, 2010
Some very nice bouldering under the slab as well, up to V8 or so.
By M Sprague
From: New England
Jan 30, 2014
We need some nice photos for this area. Anybody have any?