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Alaskan Vermin T 
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Alaskan Vermin 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b A1

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, Alpine, 3 pitches, 400'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b A1 [details]
FA: Oswald, Porter 2001
Page Views: 461
Submitted By: Andrew Krosbakken on Jun 24, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Amazing 100' splitter hands on pitch 1

Description 

This route should be considered fairly serious, there are many loose blocks and marginal fixed gear.

Pitch one: This pitch is the money pitch and by far the best pitch on the route. climb a flake feature into the sustained hand crack that leads to a one bolt and slung chock stone anchor.
Pitch two: This pitch rallies up some some fingery layback, remember to reach right for some compression moves. Be VERY careful of the huge loose block on the top of this. It ends on a nice ledge.
Pitch three: 5.9 A1 or 5.11 (FFA Hoyt and Trocki) sustained 5.9 climbing leads to the top.

Descend via a walk off to the right.

Protection 

gear to 4 inches and a set of stoppers, doubles in hands (1,2 and 3) and maybe doubles in .4 and .3 would be nice. Extra tat to back up anchors.


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Route info
Route info
Pitch 2 5.10 variation
Pitch 2 5.10 variation

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By The Shocker
Nov 11, 2014

This route is the classic of the wall. The first pitch features a 5 star splitter hand crack that is sustained 5.9. There are variations leading up to the crux pitch which is aided (c1) up the right seam, or free climbed up the face to the left at solid 5.11 protected by 2 fixed pitons. The last 50 feet of the pitch are not to be underestimated loose 5.9. The route was first climbed to the top by Carl Oswald and Matt Porter. First free ascent by Andy Hoyt and Ben Trocki.
By Dommelhiemer
Administrator
From: Anchorage
Aug 3, 2015

The first pitch of this route is excellent. Beautiful splitter, perhaps one of the best in Hatcher. it's probably more like 5.10.

the second pitch 5.8 was awful, the 5.10 variation has a couple of huge loose blocks.

Oh and getting to the base of the wall is awful and actively tries to kill you while you do the scramble.

Bring some tat to replace the anchor cords. The bolt at the top of the first pitch is a very short 1/4 inch wedge, it wiggles in the hole, back it up or replace it, if I had a drill with me, I'd consider it.
By The Shocker
Aug 3, 2015

Walk off to the right needs no rappel. Not sure why anyone would anchor off the manky bolt. Continue climbing for 40 feet and make an anchor. May is the best months to climb in this wall. Ski in, ski out, and all the choss at the base is frozen/covered.
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