Northeast Face 

FA:  Type:  Ice, Snow, Alpine Consensus:  WI1 [details] Length:  3500 feet, Grade V Season:  April - September Views: 116 page views Submitted By: chris a erickson on Jun 3, 2009 Add Photo  Add Comment

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BETA PHOTO: The NE face of Scott Peak.

Description 

The route is the steepest part of the NE face rising up from the Scott glacier (unofficial name) at the head of Denali's Unit 10. Steep snow (50 degrees) mixed with some steep alpine ice (70 degrees) create a beautiful route well worth attempting. The crux is the final move - getting over/through a cornice onto the summit. Otherwise most of the route is simul-climbable

Location 

Walk up the W fork of the Toklat river and walk right up to the obvious base of the route. Pick the steepest (most direct) line and go! Crevasses do exist at the base of the route. Our party skied the NE face - first recorded descent if we're not mistaken - otherwise a steep downclimb and possible rappels are needed.

Protection 

Pickets and screws. One mountain ax and one tool are nice.

Photos of Northeast Face Slideshow

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Getting through the crux (20ft below the summit)	It's a long walk from Toklat.	Spectacular view from the summit.
Steep, steep, icy skiing.