Register with the NP Mountaineering Headquarters in Talkeetna, AK before climbing in the park!
Description
Scott Peak sits in the central Alaska Range, 10 miles by air from the Toklat River crossing on the Denali Park Road. It is most often approached from the Sunset Glacier, to its west. Routes on the peak range from 40 degree basic snow climbing to technical routes of 70 degree ice. There is some potential for new routes on Scott, but currently only 3 or 4 have been climbed and documented.
Getting There
From the Denali Park entrance, take a camper bus and ask to be dropped off around the Toklat River (depending on the intended route). The approach hike in is roughly 12 miles.
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Scott Peak:
Northeast Face WI1 Steep Snow Ice, Snow, Alpine, 3500 feet, Grade V
The route is the steepest part of the NE face rising up from the Scott glacier (unofficial name) at the head of Denali's Unit 10. Steep snow (50 degrees) mixed with some steep alpine ice (70 degrees) create a beautiful route well worth attempting. The crux is the final move - getting over/through a cornice onto the summit. Otherwise most of the route is simul-climbable...[more]Browse More Classics in AK
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