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"The Unforgiven"
Description
A shorter R rated version of "Shaken" Below the western summit of the Bears Tooth is a left leaning gash that splits the two hangars at the far end of the Root Canal.
Climb a short rotten runout step onto the snow slope above. Run the rope up past the bottle neck till it gets steep; belay out of the way, and then fire up into a steep rotten curtain. The final two pitches climb excellent grade 4 ice to an exposed arete on the subsummit of the Bears Tooth. This route has not been continued on to the summit yet.
Downclimb from the arete to the beggining of the chimney then Decend from great fixed anchors on double ropes.
Location
South end of the Route Canal Glaicer
Protection
5-6 ice screws, several stubbies, light rack including thin cams, nuts, hexes, and a few pitons.
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