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North Wall
Routes Sorted
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Alarm Arm T 
Bashart S 
Boss Hog S 
Crystal Ball S 
Direct on the Truth T 
Fatty S 
Grease Mechanic S 
Grijavla Route S 
Liposuction Massacre S 
Loser S 
Minas Boreas (Tower of the North) S 
Or Dare S 
Power House S 
Red Licorice S 
Truth, The T 
Unknown "10c" S 
Unknown 2 S 
Unknown 3 S 
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Alarm Arm 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 169
Submitted By: LeeAB on Mar 17, 2012

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Description 

A very steep right leaning crack line.

Make the same bouldery opening moves as Fatty. Once near the first bolt of that route move right and follow the slightly right leaning crack through a difficult bulge and a weird corner. A few jams suplement the face holds. The top of the route is quite a bit easier than the bottom.

Location 

This route is the obvious right leaning steep crack at the lower right end of North Wall. Just right of the 2 steep bolted 5.11 climbs, sharing the start with Fatty, the right hand of the 2 lines.

Protection 

Cams and stoppers from small to thin hands, a hand size or slightly larger piece could go in high but a smaller piece works as well. Finishing at a bolted anchor on a slab.


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By LeeAB
Administrator
From: ABQ, NM
Mar 17, 2012

Today I arrived at the anchor to find the bolts with nothing else on them. I rigged a sling with a couple of biners to lower off, but the anchor could really use an upgrade. If you want to do this it would be nice to bring some chain and quick-links. Also you will probably need a knife to get the webbing off the hangers (it's tied directly to them, not the best but working with what I had in my pack at the time).
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