The classic route on this nifty little spire is located on the uphill side of the formation. Step off the ledge and straight into the business. Flared hands/hands takes you into the handcrack crux in the limestone band. After the limestone, keep cranking up into the pod rest, take a few moments and launch into and over the roof bulge on great hands. A few moves over manky rock and you'll be summit bound. The lower summit has a double-bolt anchor, but that's it for pro as you can either step in a sling or onto your partner's shoulders to gain the true summit. Belly slide back down to the lower summit once you've satiated your thirst for summit views....
From the parking area hike about 30 minutes on the Brins Mesa trail keeping an eye out for the pixie-stick-looking spire on your right. Once you've located the spire from the trail, draw about even with it and then do the Sedona shuffle up a drainage and then slickrock, taking the path of least manzanita to the base.
Medium finger-size cams all the way up to a #4 with extras of hand-sized cams.
From: flagstaff, AZ
Dec 28, 2006
what direction does the route face? It sounds as if it is located on the NE aspect of the Brins Mesa group. One single rope rap?
|By Seth Dyer|
Dec 28, 2006
I'm bad with cardinal directions but I believe the route faces west by northwest? The route went into the shade about 1:30 or 2 as the sun dipped behind another formation. Yup, it's only a single rope (60M) rap back to the staging area.
|By Kole DeCou|
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jan 1, 2007
How were the anchors? When I did this a couple years ago I remember thinking the bolts needed replacing. This is my favorite of the 100' and less spires.
|By Seth Dyer|
Jan 2, 2007
It wouldn't suprise me if there hadn't been anybody else up there between our respective visits.... Still the original anchors.
As for the spire, I was super impressed with it and the experience of being in that part of Sedona. Kinda had a backcountry feel to it...
|By Ryan Z|
Oct 12, 2013
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
I went and climbed the 2 routes on aladdin's lamp after climbing tasmanian devil and I have to say I am perplexed as to how people have rated this 4 stars, even 3 for that matter. Seemed like a sick joke. ^ This climb is on the west side of the tower and the anchor is in need of repair.
There is another route that goes up the east face. It is 5.10 R and has preposterously horrible rock. Do not climb the east side; you're gonna have a bad time.
|By Neil Kauffman|
May 3, 2014
The West Face is a good route, the spire is aesthetic and a great summit. The bolts should be replaced, no way to back 'em up.
Double rack to .4-#2 Camalot, triple up on #1.