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Loosy Goosy 
Magical Branding Iron 
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Standard Route 
Valdez, The 
White Liquor 

Loosy Goosy 

5.9

   

FA: unknown
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.9 [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 80 feet
Views: 105 page views

Submitted By: saxfiend on Aug 31, 2008


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Description 

A surprisingly nice line, with sustained climbing and exposure similar to the more well-known Comfortably Numb. The name implies loose rock, but I only found one unstable block just above the ledge.

Start as with Pin Chimney; boulder your way out of the little cave and up to the ledge. Continue straight up through a roof with a big crack (going slightly right of the crack is the path of least resistance). Continue up the steep face past nice jugs and a section of Gunks-like horizontals to finish through a crack at the top.


Location 

Shares start with Pin Chimney. The easiest descent option is to top out and walk across the top to the anchors for Standard Route and rap from there.


Protection 

Mostly small to medium gear; some opportunities for slinging horns. Bolted anchors on top of the pinnacle.



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By gus
From: Alabama
Sep 10, 2008

great way to do this line is do start of Pin Chimney Direct and then finish on Loosey Goosey.