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Sand Rock
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Basement, The 
Fireplace Rock 
Flintstone, The 
Grotto 
Hole, The 
Holiday Block 
Islands, The 
Jaws Block/West Side Rock 
Pinnacle, The 
Sandtrap, The 
Sun Wall 
Turtle Rock 

Sand Rock 


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Lat, Long: 34.1804, -85.817 Map
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Administrators: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough
Submitted By: saxfiend on Jan 5, 2007

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Mon Tue Wed Thu Fri
Chance of a Thunderstorm
84° | 61°
Chance of a Thunderstorm
81° | 54°
Clear
82° | 54°
Partly Cloudy
88° | 63°
Clear
91° | 64°

BETA PHOTO: This is West Side Block. Has tons of easy toprope...

Description 

Some climbers turn up their noses at Sand Rock, and it's not hard to understand why. Far from being a pristine wilderness setting, Sand Rock is a destination not just for climbers but for ATV riders, late-night partiers and other examples of southern stereotypes. Broken beer bottles and other trash are not a rare sight, and the cliffs are despoiled with spray-painted graffiti.

If you can get past the aesthetics and focus on the climbing, however, Sand Rock is actually an excellent destination. Its free-standing pinnacles offer an amazing variety of climbing, ranging from easy toprope jugfests, to crimpy face routes, to fine crack lines. Sport routes run side-by-side with tough trad climbs. Beginners can get easy access to set up topropes, and there's a plethora of good bouldering problems. And the many different areas are spread out enough that you can almost always find a place that isn't crowded. The approach is one of the shortest and easiest in the south -- walk about 100 feet from your car and you'll find yourself at the Pinnacle or Holiday Block.

Climbing at Sand Rock goes back to 1972, when the prolific Rich Gottlieb and friends began snagging FAs on routes like the classic Comfortably Numb. In the 80s, climbers like Shannon Stegg, Curtis Glass, Gene Smith and others established numerous trad lines. Later, bolted routes became more acceptable, and poorly-protected sections of cliff began sprouting sport routes, including the Sun Wall favorite Misty. Johnny Arms has been a major source of new routes since the 90s.

In more recent years, conflicts have sometimes developed between new route setters and the older guard who saw some of the new routes as squeeze jobs or retrobolts of existing routes. Something of a truce appears to be in effect for the present.

Camping is abundant near the parking lot and along the road in to Sand Rock. After climbing, a trip to the Coyote Restaurant in nearby Leesburg is not to be missed.


Getting There 

From Atlanta, take I-75 north toward Chattanooga and exit at Hwy. 411/20 (exit 290). Follow 411 toward Rome, bypassing that city; outside of Rome, turn right on Hwy. 53 (and 411). Continue through Cave Spring and Centre, AL to the town of Leesburg. Turn right on Hwy. 68 and follow this road almost three miles, watching for signs for the village of Sand Rock. Turn left on County Road 36 and continue about a mile and a half to CR 70 (you should see signs for Cherokee Rock Village). Turn left on 70 and continue up the mountain ridge to the Sand Rock parking lot.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Sand Rock:
Knob Wall   5.6     Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet   Sun Wall
Kennel Club   5.8+     Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet   Holiday Block
Pebble Power   5.8+     Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet   Turtle Rock
Pin Chimney   5.8+     Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet   The Pinnacle
Windows   5.8+ X     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60 feet   Sun Wall
My Dog Has Fleas   5.8+     Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet   Holiday Block
Popular Science (Golden Flake)   5.9+     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60 feet   Sun Wall
Comfortably Numb   5.9+     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 120 feet   The Pinnacle
Jaws   5.9+     Trad, TR, 27 feet   Jaws Block/West Side Rock
White Gold   5.9+     Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet   Sun Wall
Gravy Train   5.10a     Trad, 75 feet   Holiday Block
Oyster   5.10a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet   Holiday Block
Too Pumped Chump   5.10     Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet   The Flintstone
Cinco de Mayo   5.10c/d     Trad, 1 pitch, 40 feet   Holiday Block
Misty   5.10c/d     Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet   Sun Wall
Pigs in Zen (Tuesday's Gone)   5.10d     Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet   Holiday Block
Rabies   5.11a     Sport, 1 pitch, 75 feet   Holiday Block
Midget Digits   5.11b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet   Sun Wall
Never Believe   5.11b     Sport, 1 pitch, 45 feet   Holiday Block
Dreamscape   5.11c/d     Sport, 1 pitch, 75 feet   Sun Wall
Browse More Classics in Sand Rock

Featured Route For Sand Rock
I get MISTYYYY, thinking of you!

Misty 5.10c/d  AL : Sand Rock : Sun Wall
If Comfortably Numb is the must-do trad line, Misty is the sport route not to be missed at Sand Rock. From crimpers to thin moves on a bulge to positive holds on steep overhang, Misty has it all. An outstanding and memorable lead....[more]   Browse More Classics in AL


Photos of Sand Rock Slideshow Add Photo
Paige on unknown route.

Paige on unknown route.

Good morning

Good morning







10a, Classic

10a, Classic

A nice short trad route near Faith 5.8

A nice short trad route near Faith 5.8

Jeff giving a nice belay at Sandrock, AL.

Jeff giving a nice belay at Sandrock, AL.

My oldest granddaughter and I ejoying a good day of climbing.          Alternate Start 5.9

BETA PHOTO: My oldest granddaughter and I ejoying a good day o...

The Duke of Sand Rock (Johnny Arms)

The Duke of Sand Rock (Johnny Arms)

Sign on the Highway.

Sign on the Highway.

Me on a fun, long V1 problem @ Sandrock

Me on a fun, long V1 problem @ Sandrock

A view of Lake Weiss from camp.

A view of Lake Weiss from camp.

Progress at Sandrock?

Progress at Sandrock?

The peaceful side of Sandrock

The peaceful side of Sandrock


Comments on Sand Rock Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Mar 6, 2012
By tenesmus
Jan 6, 2007

This is a nice place to clip bolts on dry rock in the pouring rain. Especially the sunshine wall.

By BirminghamBen
From: Springville, Al
Mar 12, 2007

Unlike most spots in our great state, Sandrock is used and abused to the point of detracting from what would be an otherwise nice place to climb. Sandrock is typically crowded and loud...there are many nearby alternatives.

By Ben Griffin
From: Durango, CO
Mar 27, 2007

Ben Lyon is definitly wrong in my book. Sandrocks is a fun easy approach area for climber of all skill levels. A climber can find easy to hard everything at Sandrocks. The bouldering is fun, sport climbing is fun, and the trad is great. Sandrocks is very unique, when you look at the geological features of the area. My favorite spot to climb in the area is hole in the wall. Every route is overhanging and in the 5.11 to 5.12 range.

By BirminghamBen
From: Springville, Al
Mar 29, 2007

RIP Cinco De Mayo.

By bbrock
From: Al
Apr 9, 2007

I've lived and climbed in some of the most beautiful and quality areas this country has to offer. Sand Rock is NOT a world class destination climbing area. On the other hand it is so far from the crapfest you mentioned. The scenery is actually quite beautiful and the quality of the rock and routes is very good. There's just something about that place that keeps me coming back. If you don't like clipping bolts in a crowded, dirty, loud, crapfest, there's always Little River Canyon.

By micah stocker
May 11, 2007

This place is a total shit fest all topped off by the local young clansmen spray painting and destroying anything good this place has to offer. While the climbing is not that bad, it is just really hard to get over the total disrespect for one of the only cool places bama has to offer. AS for LRC that place is totally amazing and I understand why it is kept such a secret. Coming from Colorado I can say that place is ten stars.

By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Jan 18, 2008

I'd say that Sand Rock is a fine place to climb. Just ignore the graffitti and the trash (which wasn't that bad anyway) and focus on the climbing. I found the climbs to be really worthwhile; with Misty and Dreamscape being some of the best of the grade I have ever done.

Don't let the above comments disuade you. In my opinion, Sand Rock is definitely worth a stop.

By Rhett Burroughs
From: Valdosta, GA
Feb 6, 2008

I'm ready to crack some rednecks skulls! The last comment Ben heard from a fight in the parking lot by the yokals " I hit him right upside the head I did#%!" If you want to climb a FEW good trad routes and laugh at the ignorance at the place then this is it! You must wear blue jean cut offs and a wife beater.

By chris mcclendon
From: Gardendale, Alabama
Mar 24, 2008

Recently I found a ton of climbs with very little traffic. bolted routes, cracks, and what seems to be some amazing bouldering all at sandrock. if u r that antisocial just go to a route that all the ignorant newbies like myself dont know about and or cant climb. there are plenty at sandrock

By Brad "Stonyman" Killough
Administrator
From: Alabama
Mar 31, 2008

Sand Rock is what you make it, it hasn't changed in years. The burning of the porta-john is childish and I thought S.R. was going to get a Ranger checking on the place? Maybe they need to step-up their rounds a bit.....!

By TeresaC
Apr 4, 2009

TO ALL THOSE NEGATIVE COMMENTS ABOUT SAND ROCK...
On March 21, (a few weeks ago) I was at S.R. partcipating in the annual clean-up fest. Where were all of you? I personally do something about things that concern me and therefore have very little respect for those who just sit back and complain!
I do agree that alot of visitors disrespect the place. This damage is brought on by kids, non-climbers or very immature climbers to say the least. I try to pick up as I move from one climb to another , every time I go. A bunch of us are going up and painting over the graff. with a faux paint techique as best at we can.
Since you show so much concern...can we expect to see you there? I hope so, we would love to have you. SCC lists the dates of all the clean-ups etc. if anyone is interested in helping.

Sandrock will be destroyed (just like the rest of the earth) if everyone "TURNS UP THEIR NOSES" and DO NOTHING to help preserve it. It is a beautiful place. My brother taught me to climb there, he passed away last year. Some of his ashes were scattered at our fav campsite at that "shitfest" as you so politely put it.

  • ************DO something nice for our planet today**************

By Sam Lightner, Jr.
Jun 29, 2009

I just went to Sand Rock for the first time last weekend. Its not pure and isolated, but it is very good climbing. I'll go back.

By Peanut
Mar 14, 2010

I haven't been to SR yet, so what walls can you climb at in the rain that will have dry climbs in the below 5.10 and up to soft 5.12 ??? At sunshine wall this is the case? how many lower grade routes stay dry?? and what other walls are options?

By BirminghamBen
From: Springville, Al
Mar 17, 2010

Sun Wall is your best bet. There's a wide range of routes on that wall. Other nooks and crannies stay dry. Focus your attention there and branch out. It's not like it's an overwhelming place.

By Christopher Snipes
Jul 5, 2010

Fun area that's not too far from much of Georgia....about 3 hours from Fort Benning. Lot's to choose from and is a nice area if you can put up with the locals.

I would recommend camping just down the road a bit (perhaps a few hundred meters) from the end of the road to avoid the late night parties that show up.

By karl vochatzer
From: Austin, TX
Nov 28, 2011

Made a slight detour from Atlanta on a cross-country express trip in the car to check out this crag. Sampled a couple of good lines with some friendly climbers. Very enjoyable rock here, and yes, there was plenty of local flare on this Saturday. Noted the elevation and coordinates on the GPS: 34 degrees 10.82' N by 85 degrees 49.03' W at 1630 feet elevation at the parking lot.

By Adam Lazaro
From: Hiram, Ga
Jan 6, 2012

i found an illumination device near "my dog has fleas" on the holiday block on 1/5. anyone missing one?

By David Horning
Mar 6, 2012

Does anyone know of a way to find a topo for this location? I've tried to find a copy of the Dixie Craggers atlas, but the only one I can find is for some ridiculous price on amazon.

By s f
From: Georgia
Mar 6, 2012

The new GA/AL Dixie Cragger's Atlas should be available very soon. Word is, they are have already been sent out to the printer. The new version includes Steele, Yellow Bluff, and (OMG) Little River Canyon.