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The classic shot.
Airy Interlude is perhaps the best "moderate" route on the Witch. Not as continuous as Igor Unchained, but it shares some of Igor's coolest climbing, not to mention the classic Airy Interlude traverse pitch.
P1: Ascend the first major crack system left of the start of Igor Unchained. This is directly below the start of the obvious traverse crack and really is the first major system on the wall. Stretch the rope all the way up to the huge, sloping ledge. 5.8 or 5.9.
P2: The gem. Continue up a right-facing corner to the start of the crazy hand traverse (takes 0.5 and 0.75 Camalots). At some point you'll have to mantle up above the crack, and there is a miracle hold that allows you to do this. Finish the traverse with a couple more moves that join into the final pitch of Igor Unchained.
P3: A short, easy pitch up to the summit.
Descend north - see the Witch description for more info.
Single or double set of cams - nothing big, nothing small.
Just past the crux. Anon.
Josh Janes and Karin Wuhrmann on the never-before-...
Start of the second pitch before entering the famo...
Unknown leader on Airy Interlude taken from the to...
Starting the traverse.
Greg cruising the 1st pitch
Joy Schneiter on Airy Interlude
Climber on Airy Interlude
Climber on Airy Interlude
Awesome Airy Interlude
Another shot of a climber on Airy Interlude...
Ty grinning like an idiot on the P2 traverse. I'm...
|Comments on Airy Interlude
Jul 17, 2007
A good combo, IU to the big ledge, AI to the top. You skip the first pitch of AI, which is average, basically getting the best pitches of both IU and AI. Given the traffic on both these routes, this might be hard to pull off.
|By John J. Glime|
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Nov 16, 2007
Wasn't this rated 5.9 in the Harlin guide?! Now it is up to 5.10b?
From: Oakland CA
Aug 21, 2008
You can just barely do the top half (the good part) of this route with a 70m rope if you sling the traverse well and run the rope a bit over the final roof traverse.
.10a .10b? I just can't tell about grades any more. Anyway, the corner start before the traverse is terrific climbing as well, this would have to be the best pitch I did out of 20 at the Needles.
|By Fat Dad|
From: Los Angeles, CA
Oct 23, 2008
When I first climbed this, I remember waiting for a distinct .10b crux on the hand traverse. I never really found it. It's definitely easy .10, but solid at that.
|By David Shiembob|
From: slc, ut
Oct 29, 2008
Does .10a on granite get any cooler than this? Wow.
|By Andy Laakmann|
From: Bend, OR
Jun 1, 2009
We skipped the first pitch by scrambling from the left due to threatening weather. The primary pitch is just amazing!! Awesome gear, awesome climbing, and awesome position. The traverse took a green camalot, red camalot, and red alien in that order. I did a hanging belay right where the traverse hits Igor for the photo op of my wife climbing across, though I could easily have continued up.
Get on this climb!
Jul 12, 2011
the upper half of this route rivals any 5.10 pitch i have ever done, anywhere. absolutely terrific, heroic climbing. wow.
|By Chris I|
From: Fresno, CA
Jun 3, 2012
For P2 (the traverse pitch) I was surprised at how much small gear was needed. I highly recommend bringing a bunch of small cams if you want to sew this pitch up. Even the corner at the beginning of this pitch took great small stuff. The traverse is wonderful .75 territory, but the moves are easy enough that I wasn't worried about pro. Afterward though, you'll want nuts and small cams. Did I mention that this climb is amazing?
|By Cindy Mitchell|
Jul 13, 2012
The second and third pitches are some of the best I've EVER climbed. The traverse has some nice rests. Such stellar climbing!
|By Colonel Mustard|
From: Reno, NV
Jul 21, 2012
There is nothing wrong with the traditional start of Airy Interlude. The climbing on this pitch is varied and slightly caliente, but rumors of its chossiness are much exaggerated. Admittedly, a bit of choss is encountered but it's not that bad and pro appears solid, if sometimes intermittent throughout the climb. A possibly rope-stretching 200 feet that keeps going and going.
Save some anchor pieces!
From: Oakland, Ca
Aug 26, 2012
This is a great route- you know...if you're into that kind of thing. :)
If the grade is low for you- try a single set of cams- soo much fun to run it out on such locker terrain.
From: Prescott, AZ
Aug 27, 2012
Sad that, 1, MP wouldn't allow me to give it 5 stars, and, 2, that it replaced the 3rd (finger crack) pitch of Reunion on Granite Mountain as my favorite pitch of 10a ever.
From: Hell, MI
Oct 8, 2012
Best way to do this is 1st pitch of Igor, 2nd Airy, then finish on the shared 3rd pitch.