Type: | Sport, 60 ft (18 m) |
FA: | Rick Bradshaw and Josh Smith, 4/2000 |
Page Views: | 710 total · 3/month |
Shared By: | Monomaniac on Apr 16, 2007 |
Admins: | Shirtless Mike, Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
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Access Issue: Access Issue for Areas in BLM Taos Field Office Lands
Details
Per the Bureau of Land Management (BLM) Taos Field Office's ( blm.gov/office/taos-field-o…) 2012 Taos Resource Management Plan (RMP) ( bit.ly/2Kab3HO), "Installation of new rock climbing routes or hardware will require pre-approval by the BLM." The RMP is the document that guides all the BLM management in a given field office. Climbers are asked to respect this guidance and not install new bolts or fixed hardware on Taos Field Office BLM land without pre-approval from the BLM. NM CRAG ( nmcrag.org/) is currently working with the BLM Taos Field Office to establish specific guidance for new route development in the district and they hope to have a formal process in the near future.
Diablo areas within the BLM Taos Field Office management area are: The Shack, Winter Wall, Solar Cave, Lake Street and Styx.
Diablo areas within the BLM Taos Field Office management area are: The Shack, Winter Wall, Solar Cave, Lake Street and Styx.
Description
This challenging arete is excellent. Approach as for Early Arete, but continue the 3rd class traverse left. Begin up the dihedral until its possible to traverse onto the hanging wall. The crux begins at the end of the traverse, with difficult balancey moves getting established on the arete. Once on the arete more strenuous techery leads up to a dicey clip and finally a straight down jug. Rest up and cruise much easier, though never trivial, moves to the horizontal break, where one more challenging move gains the anchor. I thought it was harder than Early arete, but not ultra-sustained.
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