Airlie Gardens  5.9

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Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 130 feet Consensus:  5.9 [details] FA:  Tom Howard, Dan Perry (1982) Season:  Summer Submitted By:  TomCaldwell on Jun 21, 2010 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (17) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Me leading P1 of Airlie

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2013 Closures MORE INFO >>> Big Lost Cove Cliffs are closed to climbing due to the local falcon population This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

This could possibly be the best 5.9 in the entire state. It has great movement, tons of exposure, and bomber gear. Both pitches have unique features that are hard to beat anywhere. The P2 roof traverse rivals Overhang Bypass in JT, but 2 grades harder.

P1 begins next to a tree in a shallow right facing dihedral. Follow this to a short unprotected face. Continue up to the left side of the arete. Be sure to place the crucial piece of gear here before pulling around. Pull around the sharp arete to the right and up. There is an optional piece of gear out right, but can cause a lot of drag if not on double ropes. Continue up the arete to the short slab. Pull the short slab into another dihedral. Plug up the left side of the V-crack for the crux. Move out left, either rest on the ledge or continue up the dihedral pulling the roof. Move left after the short dihedral and belay on a sizable ledge with trad gear.

P2 moves out right up the ramp and to a crack on the face. Follow the crack to where it is capped by the large roof. At the roof traverse right in the large horizontal until you can step back onto the face (crux). Move up the short face and belay on gear again.

Location 

This route shares the same start as Linn Cove Lullaby. Go up the hill past Boardwalk and notice the "V-crack" in a large roof. Rap from the rings on Linn Cove Lullaby. A two rope rappel will reach the ground.

Protection 

Nuts, TCU's, Tri-cams, and double Camalots to .75 if you want to sew it up. All belays are on gear.

Photos of Airlie Gardens Slideshow

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BETA PHOTO: Notice the v-crack. This is the easiest way to id...	David following P2 of Airlie. The exciting traver...	BETA PHOTO: At the first pitch belay
Partner sussing out the P1 crux... not necessarily...	BETA PHOTO: This pic shows my partner at the fixed gear rap st...