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Me leading P1 of Airlie
This could possibly be the best 5.9 in the entire state. It has great movement, tons of exposure, and bomber gear. Both pitches have unique features that are hard to beat anywhere. The P2 roof traverse rivals Overhang Bypass in JT, but 2 grades harder.
P1 begins next to a tree in a shallow right facing dihedral. Follow this to a short unprotected face. Continue up to the left side of the arete. Be sure to place the crucial piece of gear here before pulling around. Pull around the sharp arete to the right and up. There is an optional piece of gear out right, but can cause a lot of drag if not on double ropes. Continue up the arete to the short slab. Pull the short slab into another dihedral. Plug up the left side of the V-crack for the crux. Move out left, either rest on the ledge or continue up the dihedral pulling the roof. Move left after the short dihedral and belay on a sizable ledge with trad gear.
P2 moves out right up the ramp and to a crack on the face. Follow the crack to where it is capped by the large roof. At the roof traverse right in the large horizontal until you can step back onto the face (crux). Move up the short face and belay on gear again.
This route shares the same start as Linn Cove Lullaby. Go up the hill past Boardwalk and notice the "V-crack" in a large roof. Rap from the rings on Linn Cove Lullaby. A two rope rappel will reach the ground.
Nuts, TCU's, Tri-cams, and double Camalots to .75 if you want to sew it up. All belays are on gear.
BETA PHOTO: Notice the v-crack. This is the easiest way to id...
David following P2 of Airlie. The exciting traver...
BETA PHOTO: At the first pitch belay
Partner sussing out the P1 crux... not necessarily...
BETA PHOTO: This pic shows my partner at the fixed gear rap st...
|Comments on Airlie Gardens
|By Jeff Mekolites|
From: HOTlanta, GA
Jun 30, 2010
A great option for finishing this route is the 5.11 overhang with the double cracks straight above the belay.
|By Mike Holley|
From: Boone, NC
Oct 4, 2011
Can't say enough good things about this climb! Both pitches have fantastic sequences. The first pitch is a bit runout to your first placement but great pro after that. Second pitch is short but dizzying exposure! Beautiful Climb, great exposure and great pro!!
|By Adam Paashaus|
From: North Carolina
Oct 12, 2011
I'm with Mike, this climb is great. Easily one of the best 9's I've done anywhere!!! Great exposure, great movements, great stone, great views, just great all around!
|By Cody Bradford|
From: Boone, NC
Jun 18, 2012
Be careful with your gear on the first section. Blowing it while trying to pull up on to the face with bad gear could be nasty. It is there, just take time to find it. Stellar climb all the way.
Be sure to stop and take in the air beneath your feet for the near entirety of this climb!