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Airation Buttress
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Airation 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Henry Barber, J. Brag, Bob Anderson, Aug. 23, 1973
Page Views: 7,647
Submitted By: lee hansche on Feb 17, 2007

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Alexa sending

Description 

Airation is a perfect straightforward finger crack. The crux is dealing with the pain of the sharp fingerlocks. This is a great example of 5.11a fingers. Footwork is key as there are many small feet on the face.

Pitch 1: 5.11a follow the picture-perfect, finger crack to a tree with a fixed sling and rings. Most people only do the first pitch.

Pitch 2: Follow the lower angled rock to the top.


Location 

Start on a tree-covered ledge just left of the original finish for Thin Air (5.6), which is a leaf filled gully. (Be careful stepping over the gap to the base of the climb...If you slip it's a looooong way down.) From the ledge, find the nicest finger crack. Have fun...


Protection 

Cams from thin fingers to wide fingers and some nuts.



Photos of Airation Slideshow Add Photo
Almost there. She's going to be kicking all our butts once she starts building gear anchors.
Almost there. She's going to be kicking all our bu...
"tom cruising" airation
"tom cruising" airation
Resting before the crux.
Resting before the crux.
Airation climbs the thin crack on the left. P1 ends at the visible tree in the top of the image. Heather climbs the far black streak and traverses up into the center white streak.
BETA PHOTO: Airation climbs the thin crack on the left. P1 end...
Comments on Airation Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Mar 13, 2014
By William Leung
Jul 22, 2014

CONDITION REPORT 

Climbed this 1.5 weeks ago and there was a bird with nest and eggs in the first pod of the route.

By Ladd Raine
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Apr 18, 2007

Seriously sharp, protect the bottom with blue and green Aliens.

By Mike Thompson
From: Manchester NH
Mar 6, 2009

ooOOOooo! i wanna get oh this this summer! when will it dry out?

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Mar 7, 2009

never can tell Micheal... but its not that bad there are just a few spots that take a while to dry out after rain or in the spring melt...

By CTYankee
May 5, 2009

It is almost a "give-away" for little fingers.

By Chris Graham
From: Bartlett, NH
Jun 16, 2009

I want to get this one clean this season...it is a beautiful, albeit painful route!

By john strand
From: southern colo
Sep 30, 2009

Henry, Bob Anderson and John Bragg- 3 days for the ffa !

By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Campton, NH
Sep 30, 2009

Three days? Really?

By john strand
From: southern colo
Nov 4, 2009

That's what I was told , Jay. Remember it was way dirty AND Henry was prolly removing the gear after every attempt. Gearing this climb, like Heather is much easier with Rocks and small cams too.

By Jeremiah Johnson
From: Hershey PA
Jan 18, 2010

Great climb; I just wish it was longer.

By USBRIT
From: Cumbria.UK
Jun 6, 2010

The FA did take 3 days and was Yo Yoed.

By Matt Desenberg
From: North Berwick, ME
Nov 16, 2010
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Super fun. The feet are better than you might think, too.

By James Simone
Mar 10, 2013

such a phenomenal line. it's a shame it's so short. good footwork will get you through the crux with forearm pump to spare.

By Peter Lewis
From: Bridgton, Maine
Mar 13, 2014

When Jerry Handren was writing the new guidebook to the area he measured Airation: Thirty-seven feet. (I wrote out the number to make it seem longer). But boy, it sure climbs longer than that! Also, the climb is directly above the top-out on Thin Air. Often when we guided T-Air we would point up Airation and say to our clients, "That's the direct finish. Wanna do it?" Once the color came back to their faces, we'd coil the ropes and walk off.

By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Campton, NH
Mar 13, 2014

Thirty-seven feet? Given that I was finger jamming about every nine inches, and subtract the first five feet, that means I did over 40 jams in that length. That sounds about right. No wonder it seems taller.

By john strand
From: southern colo
Mar 13, 2014

Jimmie Dunn told me that EVERY time he guided Thin Air, he did Airation..that's a lot of times

if the tree came out and you mad to mantle on the ledge,it would be several feet longer