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W Virginia
> New River Gorge…
> New River Gorge…
> Beauty Mountain
> 6) Middle Beauty
Air
5.11a YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 4 from 5
votes
Routes in 6) Middle Beauty
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Air T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Chasin' the Wind T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Fat Man's Folly T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Hilti as Charged S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Jik Fung T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Mononuclear Knows It T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Quick Robin, to the Batcrack! T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Thundering Herd T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c R |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 70 ft (21 m) |
| FA: | John Burcham, Bob Rentka 1990 |
| Page Views: | 2,433 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | Jeremy Steck on Nov 2, 2008 · Updates |
| Admins: | Pat Goodman, Chris Whisenhunt, Amanda Smith, Pnelson |
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Access Issue: NO DRONES ON NATIONAL PARKLANDS
Details
All of the crags within the New River Gorge proper are on national parklands, and drone use is prohibited here. There has been some discussion about places to launch drones that are not on park property, and then flying them over the gorge. This is super poor form; don't do it. Park regulations prohibit all drone use over the boundaries without a permit.
Description
From the hanging belay, traverse right about 15 ft to the edge of the arete. Pull up using a short vertical crack to gain a stance (crux). Continue up the arete, climbing mostly the face to the left of the arete. This route protects very well. Just before the top, you must make some thin slabby moves to reach the ledge above really solid gear.
Location
This route is right most route located on the white arete/face above the giant roof to the left of Supercrack and the Gun Club. You must rappel in from the top and set up a hanging belay from a 2 bolt anchor at the edge of the lip of the large roof. There are shuts at the top of the route, about 15-20 ft below the cliff top. These shuts can be accessed by walking to the right(facing the river) and doing a very easy scramble to a large 5 ft wide ledge. I'm almost certain you need a 70M rope to touch down to ground, but a 60M rope easily gets you to the hanging belay. You can get back to the ground using the anchors above Supercrack.
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