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Forgotten Wall, Control Tower & Up The Creek Wall
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Air Worthy 

YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Jbak, Joe Shiefman,Wing Ng,EFR,'07
New Route: Yes
Season: Winter, Spring, Fall
Page Views: 891
Submitted By: 1Eric Rhicard on Dec 19, 2007
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Your rating: -none- [change]
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Description 

Thin powerful crimping. The last 20 feet make the middle 25 worth doing.


Location 

Right side of the Control Tower. Start up crack that leads to a small ledge 25 feet up.


Protection 

Bolts, anchors



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By jbak
Dec 19, 2007

The route is 60 feet long discounting the 15 foot scramble to the first bolt. The first 20 feet are weird but not bad and the last 40 are really good with elegant movement and a very technical crux. If have soft tips you may not like the middle part though. I don't know how people under 5'10" manage the crux, but I've seen it done !

By 1Eric Rhicard
Dec 19, 2007

I think I still want the check!

By jbak
Jan 2, 2008

Thanks for drilling this one Eric. You did an excellent job. The plunker potential adds just the right spice to the top part.

By lamina
Feb 9, 2008

Seeing people hiked a route with style always makes me want to climb that route and see if I can copy or learn something from them. I have to admit that I am very weak with small holds and big/dynamic moves. But seeing how it was done today, by Josie, really inspired me to work on those weakness of mine.

Thank you for bolting and fixing this route.

By 1Eric Rhicard
Feb 27, 2008

Definitely worth doing. Got on this climb again today. It was more fun than the first time and the crux didn't seem as hard. Still 12- I think. The climbing from the crux to the chains is very good. I think that if the rock below that point was better I might give it two stars. See how I feel next time on it.

By 1Eric Rhicard
Feb 29, 2008

Redpointed this today. Think it is a two star route once you know which holds to use so you are not pulling stuff off of it. Hanging on to reach the chains is a blast.

By jbak
Mar 1, 2008

Most of the holds are at least half-pad, not bad by Mt Lemmon standards. The last part is really nice. Those big horizontal gashes just above the crux are pretty unique.

By Eric D
From: Gnarnia
Jan 21, 2009

Sorry Eric, I pulled a big chunk off this route. Sometimes I pull so hard I just rip the rock to shreds, can't help it. There is now a exposed band of epoxy where it used to be behind a flake. I enjoyed the bottom half despite *ahem* the bolted 15 foot crack.

By Forest Hill
From: Denver, CO
Jan 22, 2009

Why?