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Battle of the Bulge Buttress
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Air Swedin 

YDS: 5.13 French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: X- British: E7 6c R

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13 French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: X- British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Pat Savageau
Page Views: 5,668
Submitted By: Drewsky on Dec 20, 2008
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Taking a monster whipper of Air Swedin
Photo by Ma...


Instead of clipping the anchors on Swedin-Ringle, nest some (good) gear and climb the arete until you can rejoin the crack higher up. The arete is tenuous and any fall, especially at the crux, has the potential to be a big one! Finish in the steep, slightly crumbly right-arching fingers to thin hands crack. Exciting and spectacular!


Some will recognize this route from the Parallelojams video; most others will note that it is the oft-chalked extension to the prominent Swedin-Ringle. Lower with a 60m rope. The fixed "hardware" was pieces of static rope and carabiners in April of 2008 that was probably old.


No bolts unless you clip the Swedin-Ringle anchor (apparently this is a taboo if leading the entire route; pretend the anchor doesn't exist and forget I mentioned it). Gear from tiny (.33 or black Aliens) to 1 inch. Doubles or triples of finger to hand pieces are useful. Note that it is possible but difficult to place gear during the crux, but the fall is clean if a bit intimidating. Probably on the soft side of the 'R' rating.

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By Greg Barnes
Apr 19, 2012

The FA was by Pat Savageau (his last name is often misspelled).

By Ann Savageau
Apr 19, 2012

If anyone out there knew my son Pat Savageau, who did FA of Air Swedin, or if you have photos of him climbing, my family and I would deeply appreciate you contacting us with any memories. It's been almost 12 years since he died and we still miss him every day. If you would like to view a memorial I create for him, go to my website, annsavageau.com, and click on Memorial on the home page. Ann Savageau

By Drewsky
Dec 29, 2012

Apologies for misspelling his name when I added this.