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Routes in Train Tunnel Wall
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Air Show T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A4 |
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Black Tie Affair T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Center Stage and All Alone T A2 PG13 |
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Long and Hard T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Outrage S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Spectacular Spectacle T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3 |
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Unknown T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Whirlpool T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, Aid, 150 ft (45 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | John Kelbel |
| Page Views: | 760 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | John Kelbel on Aug 9, 2012 |
| Admins: | Frances Fierst, C S |
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Access Issue: Train Property
Details
While the climbing at the cliff is allowed (get a permit in town) accessing the "pit" via the steel ladder may not be. If climbing here keeping a low profile in the pit (stay off the rim of the pit) is recommended.
Description
One of the thinnest Aid lines on the Train Tunnel wall, with a fun overhanging finish.
P1 A4:
Aid up the wall, starting with the duct taped drill rod and move up the shallow left facing corner to the beginning of the right trending flakes. Step left into a hair line crack and follow it up a small right facing corner (crux). As you approach the bolts on the climb Outrage dont use them unless you need to down grade the climb to A3. When the bolt is in reach start moving right into another thin crack. Continue up and right into the next crack and follow it straight up the center of the overhanging wall to the alcove with a good ledge.
P2 C2:
Climb the some what rotten right corner for 6 feet to the roof. Move out the roof and pull around the lip into a left facing corner. Head straight up intersecting with Long and Hard near the top of its crux off width.
P3 5.9: Finish on Long and Hard
P1 A4:
Aid up the wall, starting with the duct taped drill rod and move up the shallow left facing corner to the beginning of the right trending flakes. Step left into a hair line crack and follow it up a small right facing corner (crux). As you approach the bolts on the climb Outrage dont use them unless you need to down grade the climb to A3. When the bolt is in reach start moving right into another thin crack. Continue up and right into the next crack and follow it straight up the center of the overhanging wall to the alcove with a good ledge.
P2 C2:
Climb the some what rotten right corner for 6 feet to the roof. Move out the roof and pull around the lip into a left facing corner. Head straight up intersecting with Long and Hard near the top of its crux off width.
P3 5.9: Finish on Long and Hard
Location
Begin at the right end of the graffiti Outrage there is a steel drill rod protruding from the cliff with protective duct tape on it. This is 15 or 20 feet to the right of Center Stage and All Alone
Protection
One or two fish heads, hand full of bird beaks, thin knife blades, and the Standard trad rack will be needed. There should be a fixed gear anchor at the end of pitch one, but be prepared to add new webbing or gear to it. This climb trends to follow the stair casing ledge below so proper bounce testing is mandatory to avoid ripping two or three pieces out and decking on the ledge.
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