Air Loopis V8
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Description Air Loopis is described as one of the benchmark V8s to define the grade. It is more of an endurance problem, but does pack a powerful punch right off the blocks. This is my personal favorite of Morrison.
Start on the big jugs at the bottom of the hole as for Breashears Crack and traverse left to the start of Helicopter. This is the crux of the route and involves some weird leg positions and really bad hands. Once you fire through this tough section, take a big breath and cruise up Helicopter (which of course you will have completely wired before trying this route). At the top of Helicopter, take a big rest on the bomber hand jams before traversing right across the lip of the Black Hole. Stay on the edge and out of the big crack towards the back of the shelf for the route to count. (Remember, this is Morrison!) This final traverse puts you at the top of Breashears Crack, which you now merely downclimb back to your starting holds, thus completing the Loop. If you think you are truly tough, do a second loop without getting down. It has been done, but not often! Enjoy.
Protection Same as all the Black Hole routes, 1-2 pads and a spotter is nice. Otherwise, don't fall.
By Ken Trout
From: Golden, CO
Dec 21, 2001
| I'm pretty sure the spelling of this route should be Air Lupis. Boulderers were watching this mid 1980s T.V. show called Air Wolf, starring a super-bad-ass police helicopter. The same people, particularly Dave Twinam, also started doing the direct start to the Helicopter boulder problem. I remember him calling the tougher start "Air Wolf". Then he and his friends got really good and started doing the loop around the Black Hole and also extended the name to "Air Lupis". |
By chris deulen
May 24, 2006
rating: V8
| That show ruled.
You can also get a bomber heel-toe in the slot at the top of "Air Wolf" ("Flaiming Arrow", "Flaiming Lips," "Flaiming Helicopter," "Air Helicopter," "Helicopter," "Lupis Helicopter," etc.). This will help with the super-pump you will have by the time you get here. Just make sure you've got a decent spotter and a chalk bag. |
By doug rouse
Jul 3, 2008
| In the interest of being a pain, there is a Dave Twinam route named " Air Stupidus " whcih goes up Breashears, across the lip, and Down Helicopter. Hence the name..YD. |
By half-pad-mini-jug
From: crauschville
May 2, 2010
| In the interest of being an even bigger pain, AL does not go into what's called the 'Flaming Arrow' start, which has become the most common start for 'Helicopter'. AL is supposed to go into 'Helicopter Direct', which uses the two underclings used for 'Pop Goes the Weasel' and then straight up into the slopers and onto Helicopter and the rest of the route. Going into the 'Flaming Arrow' start is easier than 8.
I only post this because I've been doing it wrong all this time (and this is the most common way now) and Annette told me I was doing it wrong the other day....
EDIT: Finally got this using helicopter direct (air wolf) and it is substantially harded than using the flaming arrow start to helicopter. So pumpy. |
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