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Holy cow I've wanted to do this route forever! It looks so mysterious and intruiging. There's no foreplay on this route, you get down to business right at the ground. Definitely bring a stick clip, or a crash pad. I thought the first move was pretty tough...probably in the V5-6 range. It took me many tries to stick the dyno to the big pocket. After that a few tough, but not desperate moves keep you nervous until you pull over onto the slab. The topout has some loose rock, so make sure your belayer is paying attention.
The mid-way slab is the only thing keeping this route from four-star-euphoria.
It is in the side canyon that breaks right before the Virgin painting. This is the middle of three routes on the left side of the side canyon across from How the West Was Won.
Mar 9, 2011
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a
I remember this being rated 12a in the guidebook, and feeling soft at that....
Apr 11, 2011
Bob D'Antonio's book has this rated 12b/c. There is a 12a to the left of this route, No Intent. The start moves to this one shut me down and felt like hard 5.12 (at least at 5'6").
|By Luke Childers|
Apr 21, 2012
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b
Got this one insight years ago and enjoyed the big move! Ended quickly but still worth doing!! But no way is it 12D. I think 12- would be fair. It's a boulder problem to a slab. Still work the time however.