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Air Guitar 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: M. Dufford and D. Leonardi 85'
Page Views: 6,090
Submitted By: Bryson Slothower on Mar 3, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (102)
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BETA PHOTO: natalie at the top of Air Guitar 10a

Description 

One of the Coulee's best hand cracks.

Jam thin hands to hands to fists with a spot o' offwidth below the anchor.

Bolted anchor

this was the scene of a tragic fatal accident a few years ago

Location 

Between Pony Keg and Crossing the Threshold

Protection 

tcu's and cams to 4"


Photos of Air Guitar Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Leading up Air Guitar
Leading up Air Guitar
Rock Climbing Photo: Nick doing his best not to climb Air Guitar in cra...
Nick doing his best not to climb Air Guitar in cra...

Comments on Air Guitar Add Comment
Show which comments
By Brian Hench
From: Costa Mesa, CA
Mar 16, 2009

The victim of the accident was Goran Kropp in 2002. You want to have at least one 3 inch and one 4 inch cam for this route.
By Ryan Huetter
From: Mammoth Lakes, CA
Mar 23, 2009

No need for #4 camalot. With 2 #3 camalots you can leave one low and bump the other up with you for the short wide bit at the top. Really stellar climbing!
By Scott Coldiron
Administrator
From: Spokane, WA
May 22, 2009
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Much respect to Goran, he was an amazing athlete. With that said, don't be freaked out by the past accident. This is a fun, safe lead. Ditto the last post. I don't think the #4 is needed, and didn't need to bump up the second #3.
By mcarizona
From: Flag
Nov 17, 2009

Kropp was indeed the man for getting it done. I still have the article somewhere and there is a picture of a broken biner. Some shockload or crossload went down that day.
Steve
By Brandontru
From: Nevada
Mar 4, 2010
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

The first time I went to the coulee someone had taken a fall on this climb. Spooky stuff.


None the less it is one of the coolest cracks in area.
By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Apr 30, 2012

Fun. It is definitely well protected, though I was happy to have a #4 camalot up top. An old #3.5 camalot actually would have worked better...
By Spitfire
Oct 13, 2014

Agree to By Ryan Huetter. I DID bump second #3 higher and I did not use #4.
By oretro
Oct 19, 2015
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I used a #4 and was very thankful to have it!
I didn't take up any smaller cams (<0.5) but wish that I had.

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