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Although it is very short, this pitch is action-packed and excellent. Air Guitar climbs a clean face above Peanuts, Blows Against the Empire or Scorpion. Belay at the bolt anchor above Scorpion and the new 5.13 that joins Scorpion. (Using the bolts below for an upward anchor, you can sit on the relatively comfortable ramp and avoid the hanging belay.) The first bolt is just above the ramp, off to the left. Climb up a shallow arete with ever-increasing difficulty. The last move is a real "you gotta believe" treat! Belay off a tree and wires right above the pitch. Or, either 1) place a directional and move off left to belay before the downclimb descent or 2) place a directional and move up right to belay at a two-pin anchor for a rappel descent or to carry on to the base of Forbidden Planet.
3 QDs plus small to medium wires for horizontal between bolts 1 and 2.
|By Steve Annecone|
Aug 27, 2003
Just did this today, very nice route! The distances between bolts are a little sporty, but a fall would be generally safe. In addition to some small nuts (not ideal), there's a pretty good small yellow Camalot placement between the first and second bolts.