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 ADVANCED
Lower Peanuts
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Air Guitar 
Aspenleaf Dihedral 
Black Pearl 
Blows Against the Empire 
Chaucer 
Cornered, straight up variation 
Dihedral 
Do or Do Not 
Double Cracks 
Easy Off 
Empire Strikes Back, The 
Faith, Hope and Charity 
Fickle Finger of Eight 
Forbidden Planet 
Home Free 
Jackson Browne (aka Fluid Power) 
Just Another Girl's Climb 
Let's Jet 
Narrow Gate, The 
No Visible Means of Support 
Nova 
Off The Cuff 
Peanuts 
Pretender, The 
Right Escape 
Sacred and the Profane, The 
Scorpions 
Shield, The 
Sickle 
Star Track 
Strolling 
Tracer 
Trouble And Strife 
West Crack (aka Star Wars) 
Whiskey Gala 
Wired 
X-Wing 
Young, Blonde, and Easy 
Your Basic Lieback 

Air Guitar 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
FA: Steve Dieckhoff, Kathy Lenz
Fixed Hardware: 3 Lead Bolts [details]
Page Views: 552
Submitted By: Dougald MacDonald on Jul 27, 2003
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Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Although it is very short, this pitch is action-packed and excellent. Air Guitar climbs a clean face above Peanuts, Blows Against the Empire or Scorpion. Belay at the bolt anchor above Scorpion and the new 5.13 that joins Scorpion. (Using the bolts below for an upward anchor, you can sit on the relatively comfortable ramp and avoid the hanging belay.) The first bolt is just above the ramp, off to the left. Climb up a shallow arete with ever-increasing difficulty. The last move is a real "you gotta believe" treat! Belay off a tree and wires right above the pitch. Or, either 1) place a directional and move off left to belay before the downclimb descent or 2) place a directional and move up right to belay at a two-pin anchor for a rappel descent or to carry on to the base of Forbidden Planet.


Protection 

3 QDs plus small to medium wires for horizontal between bolts 1 and 2.



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By Steve Annecone
From: boulder
Aug 27, 2003

Just did this today, very nice route! The distances between bolts are a little sporty, but a fall would be generally safe. In addition to some small nuts (not ideal), there's a pretty good small yellow Camalot placement between the first and second bolts.