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Lime Kiln
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Air France  S 
Hoarse Platitudes  S 
Homo Faber S 
Honeycomb, The S 
Horror Show, The S 
Magnum Opus  S 
Mantis S 
Mesquiter  S 
Unknown S 
Vesper S 
Voyager One S 
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Air France  

YDS: 5.14a French: 8b+ Ewbanks: 32 UIAA: X+ ZA: 32 British: E8 7a

   
Type:  Sport, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.14a French: 8b+ Ewbanks: 32 UIAA: X+ ZA: 32 British: E8 7a [details]
FA: Jonathan Siegrist
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,750
Submitted By: Jonathan Siegrist on Mar 26, 2014

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BETA PHOTO: Vesper and Air France.

Description 

A little taste of Southern France. Rock quality and features that are very reminiscent of the Verdon Gorge... right here in the Arizona strip.

Start by doing the (right option) first pitch of Vesper. From the comfy belay ledge, take off and mind the gap, following the line of bolts right of Vesper. Some fun, relatively mellow intro climbing leads to a very tricky low angle crux moving left and then up to a line of pockets and then back reaching right to a left facing flake. Take a breather. Either extend this clip and make the clip from below or wait until you're kickin' it at the flake and reach left.

The next 3 bolts are the business. Sustained, technical and engaging - sloping pockets, interesting edges and smeary footwork eventually connect you with the second to last bolt on Vesper - finish as you would for Vesper.

An outstanding and demanding pitch. A true gem. At some point I would like to lengthen the pitch down into the pit (you'll understand when you get there) but I ran out of bolts and time.. maybe next year...

I would highly recommend climbing Vesper first and lowering down this route to hang draws and have a look see at the holds / movement. The last couple clips on this are quite tenuous and a little spicy. Going ground up may result in a handful of jarring, confused falls on a not super rad belay.

Grade? Definitely harder than Magnum Opus. But maybe not as hard as Planet Earth (VRG). Maybe the very best rock I've ever touched in North America.

Location 

To the right of Vesper on the same stunning wall.

Protection 

10 bolts. Bring a long runner for the first couple bolts off the belay or back clean them as you climb past.


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