|Upper Infirmary Slabs
This is a two-pitch route with two very different pitches. Pitch one climbs a steep hand-crack up to a ledge (with a bit of junky rock at the start to get to the good stuff) and then traverses the ledge to the left for about twenty feet (5.9). The second pitch goes up a thin flake to the top (5.7). You'll notice that the belay position below the second pitch is only about ten feet above the ground and a short section of 5.8 would get you to the same spot.
This route is on a formation called the Footstool. It's up and right from most of the routes on Upper Infirmary. The thin crack of the second pitch can be seen from below and could serve as a useful navigation aid. We approached by climbing Mumakil and then scrambling left and down a little from there. The start of the route is to the left of a large, flat boulder.
Descend by downclimbing a third-class slab to the climber's right.
Standard rack. An extra #1 and #2 Camalot would be useful for the first pitch. Stoppers and small cams are useful on the second.
|By Andrew S.|
Feb 17, 2013
Checked this out yesterday on a nice day in the Vrain. First pitch is cool, bottom section is a little crappy and had some loose flakes in there, but was able to place gear off of them. The jams on the upper section are sweet. Definitely a couple extra #1s and #2s, unless you're solid at the grade, as I am not. Pitch 2 climbs a nice, thin crack up the slabby face on smaller gear. It is a fun short pitch as well.