|Sun Spot Crags
Intriguing face climbing on small but good edges, with a balancy crux and a big pull over the final bulge.
On the formation 20 feet left of Solar Flare. Just left of Solar sys-stem
|Comments on Ain't no Sunshine When it's Gone
Feb 4, 2007
There's a song that keeps repeating in my head when I read the name of this route.
Feb 18, 2007
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b
The belay location is a little treacherous, the first bolt is a little low, and the rock is a little rough. That said I still give it two stars because a few of the moves are really great. Most of the holds are crimps. One of the cruxes was reachy and the other balancey. In my opinion this route is about as hard as a 10 can get without being an 11.
Feb 19, 2007
I thought about putting the first bolt higher, but if you slipped before getting the clip you and your belayer would tumble down the gully.
Someone else also thought 10d would be a fair rating on this one.
From: Casa do Cacete
Feb 16, 2013
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c