Ain't My Gull To Whack 5.6 PG13
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 120 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.6 [details] |
| FA: | unknown |
| Submitted By: | Leo Paik on Nov 23, 2006 |
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BETA PHOTO: A topo of some of the lines on this section of the...
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Season raptor closures MORE INFO >>>
The following areas are closed from March 1-July 31 or until further notice: Twin Owls, Rock One, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sheep Mountain, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Lightning Rock and Checkerboard Rock are currently closed. The closures include the named rock formations and the areas extending 100 yards surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes and climber's access trails to the formation. Alligator Rock is also closed. www.nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/area_closures.htm
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description This is a second pitch taking a direct line from Arch Crack to the exit of P2 of Arch Crack. It ascends a crack/groove to the left of Right Chimney and the flake system, Flakes of Glass which is also just left of Right Chimney. It provides yet another low-end moderate pitch in the area if you are so inclined. There is no mention of it in the Rossiter or Gillett guidebooks. It may have been done before, if so, no offense intended. Ascend Arch Crack to the point where it traverse/angles left. Make an easy but somewhat runout set of moves to gain a crack system. Small wires or Aliens may help here. Continue up the groove with an interesting high step and the crack widens to hand-size. The flake system to the right merges near the finish of the pitch. The name comes from the lack of a need for hexes, a.k.a. Gull Whackers. Walkoff/scramble off right. A bit devious.
Location This starts just left of Flakes of Glass and where Arch Crack angles left.
Protection Double black Alien, singles blue through yellow Alien; 2 #1, 2 #2, 1 #3 Camalots, small-medium wires.
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