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Air Spire
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Aimless Foreshadowing  T,TR 
Air S 
Chucklehead Crack T 
Phallus in Wonderland T,S 
Return of the Chucklehead's T 
Unknown (The Line over Lucy?) T 

Aimless Foreshadowing  

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b R

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Branden Michelkamp
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 494
Submitted By: Branden Michelkamp on Aug 7, 2011

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BETA PHOTO: Me on the FA

Photo Credit Nick Pritchard.

Description 

Follow the thin crack to the right of the Chucklehead/Phallus (P2) on the direct face follow up the crack until it runs out(crux). Good pro for the crux but runout after, until the big ledge. Next, continue up the face as it becomes slightly overhanging on jugs (Large Flakes) to the chains up top. Do NOT lead this unless you are solid on at least 9's for the runouts I found little adequate pro but the climb is all there. Move fast on the top part to reduce "pump factor"

Also be weary of the thin flakes on the upper part.

Location 

Do the first pitch of either Phallus or Chucklehead one can either climb the 5.7 chimney then clip draws to the anchor and TR. Or Lead from the anchor at the top of Phallus/Chucklehead. And follow the thin crack to the right of the large chimney.

Protection 

Anchors at top, Standard rack will do, small wires will do ya for the crux. No bolts.


Photos of Aimless Foreshadowing Slideshow Add Photo
Finish part of route  <br /> <br />Photo Credit: Nick Pritchard
BETA PHOTO: Finish part of route

Photo Credit: Nick Pritchar...
Start <br /> <br />Photo Credit: Nick Pritchard
Start

Photo Credit: Nick Pritchard

Comments on Aimless Foreshadowing Add Comment
Show which comments
By Branden Michelkamp
From: Menomonie WI
Aug 7, 2011

If this route has been done before please let me know. The last thing I want to do is steel someones lightning!
By Tradoholic
Aug 7, 2011

Is there a pic you can draw the line on? I can't quite picture this.
By Branden Michelkamp
From: Menomonie WI
Aug 7, 2011

Let me know if those help it basically follows the direct face to the right of the chimney starting in the thin crack.
By Branden Michelkamp
From: Menomonie WI
Aug 7, 2011

Basically climb the face you Rap down.
By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
Aug 8, 2011

So by your description, this route starts on pitch 2 by the chained anchors and the large chimney. Then you climb on the face right of the chimney in a thin crack? Is that right? If so, this pitch probably has not be done before, to my knowledge.
By Branden Michelkamp
From: Menomonie WI
Aug 8, 2011

Yes John that is exactly where the route starts. Just watch for loose rock.
By Josh Olson
From: madison, wisconsin
Aug 8, 2011

Nice work. That pitch always looked doable, but the rock quality is definitely suspect in some spots.
By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
Aug 8, 2011

Cool Branden. Nice work.
By Doug Hemken
Administrator
Sep 9, 2013

Tough first moves. Loved the rails toward the top!