Aimless Foreshadowing 5.10c R
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10c [details] |
| FA: | Branden Michelkamp |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | Branden Michelkamp on Aug 7, 2011 |
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BETA PHOTO: Me on the FA
Photo Credit Nick Pritchard.
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Description Follow the thin crack to the right of the Chucklehead/Phallus (P2) on the direct face follow up the crack until it runs out(crux). Good pro for the crux but runout after, until the big ledge. Next, continue up the face as it becomes slightly overhanging on jugs (Large Flakes) to the chains up top. Do NOT lead this unless you are solid on at least 9's for the runouts I found little adequate pro but the climb is all there. Move fast on the top part to reduce "pump factor"
Also be weary of the thin flakes on the upper part.
Location Do the first pitch of either Phallus or Chucklehead one can either climb the 5.7 chimney then clip draws to the anchor and TR. Or Lead from the anchor at the top of Phallus/Chucklehead. And follow the thin crack to the right of the large chimney.
Protection Anchors at top, Standard rack will do, small wires will do ya for the crux. No bolts.
BETA PHOTO: Finish part of route
Photo Credit: Nick Pritchar...
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Start
Photo Credit: Nick Pritchard
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| Comments on Aimless Foreshadowing |
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By Branden Michelkamp
From: Menomonie WI
Aug 7, 2011
| If this route has been done before please let me know. The last thing I want to do is steel someones lightning! |
By Trad Nanny
Aug 7, 2011
| Is there a pic you can draw the line on? I can't quite picture this. |
By Branden Michelkamp
From: Menomonie WI
Aug 7, 2011
| Let me know if those help it basically follows the direct face to the right of the chimney starting in the thin crack. |
By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
Aug 8, 2011
| So by your description, this route starts on pitch 2 by the chained anchors and the large chimney. Then you climb on the face right of the chimney in a thin crack? Is that right? If so, this pitch probably has not be done before, to my knowledge. |
By Branden Michelkamp
From: Menomonie WI
Aug 8, 2011
| Yes John that is exactly where the route starts. Just watch for loose rock. |
By Josh Olson
From: madison, wisconsin
Aug 8, 2011
| Nice work. That pitch always looked doable, but the rock quality is definitely suspect in some spots. |
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