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Aikido Gun Boy 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a R

   
Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Van Betten, Harrison, Meyers, Mamusia, 91
Page Views: 842
Submitted By: John Wilder on Sep 25, 2009
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Description 

This thin, bold, andimpressive route lies just to the right of Chicken Eruptus and starts with a cool boulder problem up to a blocky section before delicate climbing is required to reach the first bolt. From there, its game on past three more bolts and some thin gear to a good ledge.

It seems some holds have broken and become smaller on this route in recent years- the route feels solid 5.12 now, with the moves the the second bolt having gotten substantially harder. It would be wise, I think, to relegate this route to TR only for all but the strongest and boldest climbers out there.

Note: Gaining the second bolt will require the leader to be extremely bold and be willing to climb hard 5.11 above marginal, micro protection which, if it fails, will likely result in a groundfall from above 40'. This route is extremely dangerous.

Note: This route can be TR'd if you bail right at the break on Chicken. Bring 2 #3 Camalots and a nut for the anchor.


Location 

Start about 25' right of Ragged Edges, look for a bolt about 10-12' up on a white face, this is the route.


Protection 

Thin gear- small and micro cams, nuts, plus four bolts. (2) #3 C4s or equivalent for the anchor.



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By chad umbel
Sep 26, 2009

I think a good rule of thumb for this site should be only post a route if you've actually climbed it. From the ground up. At least on dangerous routes. This way when someone reads about it on this site and decides that he or she would like to climb it, they have substantial and honest route information and don't get themselves hurt. Aikido Gun boy is more like solid 12a old school power face climbing. And that's if it even goes the same way it did when these hardmen put it up. Personally I think that quite a few key holds in between the first and second bolt have snapped. Also, for the rack, you don't want a bunch of extra gack to tote up this rig so leave yourself a #3 and #2 Camalot for the anchor cuz anything smaller won't be solid. A handfull of aliens up to yellow + #'s 4,5,6 HB Offset for the climbing. As for the PG-13, it's full on R. If you blow clipping the first bolt and your gear holds, you'll be lucky if you just break your ankles on the low angle terrain you pawed up to get there.

By Darren in Vegas
From: Las Vegas, NV
Sep 27, 2009
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a PG13

In my opinion, I like the old school 11+ rating. However, it is noticeably harder than Spring Break, in Icebox. Chad is right getting to the first of the high bolts on this route is heady, and I protected it with a 000 BD C3, which looks really good, but on sandstone, I wouldn't want to find out the hard way if it worked or not.

By Manjushri
Nov 18, 2009

I'm not one to give much detailed info, but on this route the pieces pre-second bolt (there's a low bolt as well) are crucial to avoid proving your mortality in the event of a fall:

You can get an HB brassie in there with the 000, which, as Darren suggests with the bd tcu, you will also not want to test.

By Pitty
From: Marbach
Apr 27, 2011
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a X

I almost dyed in this route - psychical did..... The first bolt is easy to clip with a side layback on good holds, but to reach the second bolt, you risk a death fall. The crux is reaching the second bolt and it is around 20 - to 25 feet upon the first bold but only 40 feet above ground.....
Once you reached and clipped the second bolt you have it, some more fine holds.....
For me: not to be climbed, absolutely dangerous!

By SexPanther aka Kiedis
Jun 11, 2011

I think the last post somehow topped all the other weirdness on this page-the (total) bullshitting, hating, the warnings, and now: dyed-ing! Psychical dyed-ing! Pitty damn hilarious, if you ask me!

By Pitty
From: Marbach
May 15, 2013
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a X

@ Killi: you haven't had my full pants I think nor the ones of my belayer seeing me 25 feet above the first bolt 20 feet high making the Crux moves....
Didn't found it really funny :-)

By SexPanther aka Kiedis
May 15, 2013

That's correct. I haven't had your full pants.

Time to start lighting candles in churches..