||Trad, Mixed, Ice, Snow, Alpine, 7 pitches, 1200', Grade III
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a WI3 M6+ [details]|
|FA: ||E. Barnard & J. Giese|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Page Views: ||836|
|Submitted By: ||EB on Dec 22, 2008|
Your todo list:
Your rating: -none-
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE: [0 people like this page.]
first section snow ramp
Located to the right(west) of the ice climb is a steep pyramid of rock approx 350ft tall; the Aiguille traverses in from thewest on mod snow and ascends the center of the pyramid. From the top of this a couple of easy mixed pitches leads to a short section of WI 3 ice. At the top another pitch of moderate mixed brings one to the big arching roof which is approx. 35ft long. Traverse into the roof and acrross through some intense traditional mixed climbing (M6+). a short pitch of moderate mixed brings one to the summit. A super classic route anywhere!
Center of steep rock pyramid; west of ice route
Standard rack; doubles .5-# 3 BD, selection of pins
Easy mixed pitch after the ice pitch with the roof...