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 ADVANCED
Ament's Rock
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Aids T,TR 
Wiggly Seam T 

Aids 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Pat Ament & Linda Schneider, 1984
Page Views: 508
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Jul 1, 2005

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Getting into the seam...er... hand/finger crack.
Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

If you are in search of obscure routes with stars in Rossiter's guidebook, this may be on your list. Well...it is close to the road, you won't find crowds, your cell phone reaches here, sun, but it ain't that great. Crack, yes, but it doesn't climb like typical crack. 1 star... barely. Wiggly Seam (esp on TR) is better but has much less pro.

Find this route on a clean-looking, South-facing, slab located just right of the trail after you turn left crossing the bridge that accesses the Dome & Frogman Pinnacle. Beware of poison ivy on the approach.

Ascend the crumbly slab to the roof below this route. Move to the left end of the roof. The crack starts as an incipient just over the roof. Pop over the roof left or right of the crack. Either lieback the crack or sort-of-jam the right-angling crack to the top, 50 feet. Walk off left.

You can bail off left to climb the arete (5.6?), Deb's Arete, if you get to the start of the crack & don't like the looks of it on lead.


Protection 

Light rack to #3 Camalot. Red Alien to #2 Camalot for the anchor.



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By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
Jul 24, 2007

Anyone know if this FA is the same as the realtor?