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Jan 12, 2013
00 johnnyrig
Joined Dec 11, 2011
68 points
Jan 12, 2013
daisies, funkness, nuts, cams, a shitload of biners or draws, big plush harnesses, kneepads

i'm almost ashamed to be contributing to this madness. if you're the same dude I'm thinking of from a past thread...
S Denny
From Aspen, CO
Joined Sep 25, 2008
24 points
Jan 12, 2013
hmm maybe you aren't that dude. my apologies. good luck on your quest. S Denny
From Aspen, CO
Joined Sep 25, 2008
24 points
Jan 13, 2013
Rock Climbing Photo: Magic Ed
You need an adjustable fi-fi hook or some adjustable daisies--makes things a whole lot easier.

Be sure you let someone know where to look for you when you don't get back on time.
Ed Wright
Joined May 14, 2006
332 points
Jan 13, 2013
Rock Climbing Photo: The Cathedral Spires in RMNP, left to right: Stile...
Leave the iron and bolt kit behind. Put some loops on the BD cams that allow you to clip in short. Shorten the loop on your fifi, and avoid using it when possible.

Edit: Just looked at your pic. Girth hitch your fifi to your waist belt/leg loops instead of your belay loop. That will bring you closer to your aid piece. And definitely leave the iron behind and work with natural protection as much as possible.
Marc H
From Lafayette, CO
Joined May 10, 2007
280 points
Jan 13, 2013
a pair of brass nutts Suqui
From asia
Joined Jan 11, 2013
0 points
Jan 13, 2013
A Fish haulbag!!! Steve Williams
From Denver, CO
Joined Jul 15, 2005
61 points
Jan 13, 2013
grappling hook
beef jerky
Joined Sep 19, 2003
21 points
Jan 13, 2013
Rock Climbing Photo: Buffsta
dmm offset brassies Jon Zucco
From Denver, CO
Joined Aug 15, 2008
364 points
Jan 13, 2013
Rock Climbing Photo: Russ
Right here Hoss...
Russ Walling
Joined Oct 5, 2004
3,279 points
Jan 13, 2013
get some hooks, lose a bunch of those pins. i havent seen a pin rack that big since i first saw that pic of Robbins in Camp 4 sipping coffee racking up for the Salathe's first ascent. You might need some pins, but I doubt you'll need that many.

offset cams, 3 each in the tiny cams (black alien to yellow alien-ish sizing) will go a long way for you.
John Wilder
From Las Vegas, NV
Joined Feb 1, 2004
2,390 points
Jan 13, 2013
Rock Climbing Photo: Casual Route Pitch 3  Photo by Mark Cushman
Russ Walling wrote:

Oh new!!!
Mine still work, but a new pair would sure be nice!
I seriously can't figure out how I ever went without the adjustable daisy. I guess, b/c I only tried it a few times before switching.
From Boulder, Colorado
Joined Jun 24, 2008
110 points
Jan 13, 2013
If your playing on granite or anything not soft you will want some leepers/ cam-hooks; very good in the valley. Agreed with the comment on use free gear whenever possible. gunter
Joined Mar 2, 2011
13 points
Jan 15, 2013
Modern clean climbing ethic. NorCalNomad
From San Francisco
Joined Oct 6, 2011
116 points
Jan 17, 2013
Rock Climbing Photo: Thunderbolt Peak in the Palisades
How high is the pitch you are planning on aiding? Make sure you have the proper gear and knowledge to self resuce out there. Practice tying knots and rappelling with only one hand (not your dominant) so if you do hit trouble you'll be ready. randy88fj62
Joined May 28, 2010
67 points
Jan 17, 2013
Rock Climbing Photo: Summit shot
You need cigarettes and beer. Drew McLean
From Colorado
Joined Oct 16, 2006
378 points
johnnyrig wrote:
... vs... Sport climbing bolt ethic? Why make this into that kind of thread? Oh, I get it... I'm doing something you wouldn't and don't approve of. Nice. I already came here and other sites looking for partners and people to teach me the "ethics" along with the style and method. I'll be leaving with a clear impression that none of you can agree on what that "ethic" is really all about. Sport climbers are not boulderers are not trad climbers are not gym climbers. I'm not on your route. I'm not at your crag. I'm probably not going to run into you at the gym. At least half of you think I'm out of my mind anyway. So what are you worried about again? The rock? The one that hasn't seen a climber on it for at least a decade, if ever? The fish in the stream that are going to all suffocate and die from one guy with a goldpan on the weekend in the middle of nowhere? No, I think you judge me an idiot and a troll. While modern soloists scale the big walls of Yosemite and you call them heroes, anyone who plummets off a crag off top-rope and dies gets labelled a noob and a moron, while still you spout your "ethic" in merely a single sentence paraphrase. Thanks for your opinions. Really. Shall I just crawl back in my cave now? I'm sure there's a club lying around somewhere... Let's be clear. I want the right gear to help me out of sticky situations, should I end up in a bad place. I'm asking about aid gear and such and trying to learn how it's used to save my ass. I already have the clean gear. I already intend to use it. Going up and coming down is different than rapping in and climbing out. Oh wait, you're a climber. Do you DO canyons? Try more than a single sentence, eh? Perhaps you'll get me to think about it.

Dont take some of the opinions as fact around here. I doubt that they will ever run into this epic canyon that you are doing so its probably best to just go through and find the comments that help and ignore those preaching their ethics.
Jan 17, 2013
J Hazard wrote:
find the comments that help and ignore those preaching their ethics.

Yes, because it would be horrible to actually approach your goal with any sense of established ethics. And no, people trying to tell you what the general set of ethics is are not preaching or getting down on you. They are trying to be helpful, so accept it as such.

BTW, there are ethics with aid. It pretty much boils down to this: climb as clean as possible; don't bolt where you lack the skill to climb safely. If you doubt my opinion, see this related thread on Supertopo:

Having said that, leave the hexes at home. You can get around using a fifi by using clipping a biner to your dogging loop and simply clipping in with that when you're waist high in your aiders. Every route I've done on the Captain I used a biner instead of a daisy. Worked fine. The fifi always had a tendency to get snagged on stuff and I also felt nervous having a hook dangling down by my junk. Most others don't seem to have that issue. YMMV.

Also, if you must nail, do so sparingly and get a cleaner biner: an old crappy biner you clip into the pin as you're cleaning it so you don't drop it. Aiding is far easier and quicker when climbing clean. When you place a cam hook, you step up and go. When you nail, you have to pull a pin off your rack, see if it's the right size, hammer it in (without over driving it), bounce test it then finally step up on it. And they you have to clean it, which sometimes is easy, sometimes it's a royal pain in the butt. When you climb clean, you climb faster and your rack is WAY lighter.
Fat Dad
From Los Angeles, CA
Joined Nov 9, 2007
146 points

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