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Lothian Buss
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Apr 22, 2016
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Durango, CO
· Joined Jul 2014
· Points: 15
Title says it all. Looking for suggestions for aid climbs in the northeast. Interested in the obvious, such as the Mordor Wall, (what guidebook for detailed beta?) as well as less traveled free routes that would be good aid practice. C1 is a breeze. I'm interested in A/C1 to 2+, for starters. Where to practice a pendulum? A traverse? Cheers.
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Stein Pull
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Apr 22, 2016
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Jun 2013
· Points: 0
You're on the right track with the Mordor Wall. Add on Mines of Moria, right next to it. Twilight Zone at the Gunks is good aid practice. Lots of good stuff at Moss Cliff in the Adirondacks. There are a few great 5.10ish routes at the Beer Walls as well that aid well. One could aid some routes at the Spider's Web. Be certain not to do any hammering or use hooks on free routes. Aiding popular free routes on the weekend during prime season is not recommended. Then take a long weekend and drive down to Looking Glass in NC and get serious.
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Climberdude
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Apr 22, 2016
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Nov 2012
· Points: 0
Pendulum route at cathedral. Haven't done it yet but it looks pretty good. Enjoy!
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Steve Marshall
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Apr 22, 2016
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Concord NH
· Joined Jul 2014
· Points: 45
Not to hijack, (except that this is totally hijacking), I am just getting started with aid and if anyone wants to throw a list of good C0/1 aid climbs along with their suggestions for C2+ for Lothian, I'd appreciate it.
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Lothian Buss
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Apr 22, 2016
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Durango, CO
· Joined Jul 2014
· Points: 15
What's the good guidebook with detailed beta for aid routes on Cathedral? and Hijack away. Also, Steve, if you want to do some easy aid climbing in June, hit me up. Thanks for the responses. Keep it coming!
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Stein Pull
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Apr 22, 2016
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Jun 2013
· Points: 0
Lothian Buss wrote:What's the good guidebook with detailed beta for aid routes on Cathedral? North Conway Rock Climbs by Jerry Handren is the go-to. I wouldn't call it detailed beta, but it is certainly enough to get you up the routes. Climbing Magazine issue 170 from 1997 has a feature, By Hook and by Crook, on New Hampshire's aid routes, with a number of aid-specific topos. Included are Mines of Moria, The Prow, Mordor Wall, VMC Direct Direct, Stryder Wall to Labyrinth Wall, Reality Check, Fruit Cup Wall, and Across the Great Divide. A number of the grades have changed since the article (it has Mordor Wall as A4), due to repeat climbing, fixed gear, and more specialized equipment. If you would like to borrow it, or would like me to send you scans, shoot me a PM.
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Joe M
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Apr 22, 2016
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MA and NH
· Joined Dec 2008
· Points: 11,725
Has to be some on Cannon right???
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Marc801 C
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Apr 22, 2016
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Sandy, Utah
· Joined Feb 2014
· Points: 65
Stein Pull wrote:A number of the grades have changed since the article (it has Mordor Wall as A4), due to repeat climbing, fixed gear, and more specialized equipment. I did Mordor when it was still A4 and before specialized thin gear. That expando flake on P1 was f*cking terrifying. The P2 traverse with sketch bat hook holes and only 3 bolts was pretty heads-up, too.
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Nick Goldsmith
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Apr 23, 2016
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Pomfret VT
· Joined Aug 2009
· Points: 440
I would highly recomend Not doing VMC direct Direct with aiders. its usualy pretty busy and most people simply french the cruxes if they are not going all free. pleanty of dedicated aid climbs on cannon to get on instead of jacking up the the busyest hard free climb on the cliff. I always found the pendulum on vertigo pretty exciteing.
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DGoguen
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Apr 23, 2016
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Sep 2010
· Points: 0
Grand Finale on Cathedral is a good one as well. Just to the left of Mordor. Crosses over Diagonal and through the roofs.
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stephen arsenault
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Apr 24, 2016
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Wolfeboro, NH
· Joined Aug 2011
· Points: 66
If you want a full day outing; including a big pendulum, do the Pendulum route the way it was done originally, back in 1967. I had never done a pendulum prior to this and I doubt the route was done many times before it later went free. I'm sure with modern cams, all the aid could be done without pitons. The ash tree, at the beginning of pitch 1 has fallen over, and a bolt ladder replaced it. You might have to search for a route description, as the newer guidebooks will not have it.
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DGoguen
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Apr 24, 2016
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Sep 2010
· Points: 0
stephen arsenault wrote:You might have to search for a route description, as the newer guidebooks will not have it. Luckily, Cotes 69 guide gives a gear list too. 10-15 horizontals, 3 knife blades, 2 4"bongs, 2 1 1/2" bongs, 2 1 1/2" angles, 2 1 1/4" angles, 5 1" angles,4 3/4" angles, 3 5/8" angles, and 2 1/2" angles. Ha.
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Climberdude
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May 6, 2016
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Nov 2012
· Points: 0
DGoguen wrote: Luckily, Cotes 69 guide gives a gear list too. 10-15 horizontals, 3 knife blades, 2 4"bongs, 2 1 1/2" bongs, 2 1 1/2" angles, 2 1 1/4" angles, 5 1" angles,4 3/4" angles, 3 5/8" angles, and 2 1/2" angles. Ha. Steve and DG. Thanks for the iron list. My brother and I are going to repeat itnoriginalnstyle within this season . Thanks!!! Will the trip report after
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DGoguen
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May 6, 2016
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Sep 2010
· Points: 0
chrispatrick wrote: Steve and DG. Thanks for the iron list. My brother and I are going to repeat itnoriginalnstyle You should definitely get on it Chris but I was kidding on the gear list. That "69" Cote list goes to show how much has changed in the 49 years since it was put up. A game changer at the time for sure, but leave the hammer in the car and enjoy a great adventure. Good luck.
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George Elias
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Nov 21, 2018
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Boulder
· Joined Sep 2016
· Points: 15
Looking for a partner to dial in aid systems/hauling/ free transitions to do more big wall objectives, could usually climb in the gunks Wednesdays and some weekends... only led c1 to this point. driving up from queens
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