Easily the most difficult 5.11a at Wheeler--fully a grade harder than Exodus, Blush, or Danger Boy.
From a starter-rock near the edge of the stream climb up until reaching an obvious horizontal crack (only about 6 feet above the water). Traverse left until reaching the first protection bolt. Climb up to a major jug, clip the second bolt (marked with an aging white sling), and fire the thin and pumpy crux. Traverse right to join Silent Mind and climb straight up the slightly overhung face, clipping the last 4 bolts of this route.
Despite meandering a bit much, this is a super fun route.
6 bolts to 2 open shuts (new 11kN Fixe Supershuts).
The entire route is very well protected.
BETA PHOTO: "Aha!" (5.11a) follows a meandering but very fun l...
Lock-off and reach. Aha!
|By andy patterson|
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Aug 16, 2010
Climbed it on a hot day in August and came to the consensus that no matter how strong I get, this route always feels hard. Very quality rock with equally quality moves. Don't worry about traversing in to the first bolt; it's easy, and a fall would merely get you wet, not hurt.