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BETA PHOTO: AW-MAW goes over the big wide roof....
The new g...
The gear is fairly good, but there is a small runout onto the face at the 10a crux move. It is a fair route with a few good moves.
This route is on the left side of the cave at the end of the water pipe. Follow the blunt dihedral and pull on to the face via a 10a move. After this, you have passed the crux, so you have a number of options as to how the route can be finished.
|By jack roberts|
Jun 4, 2010
On June 3, 2010, Michele Beaty and I did what might be either a new route or a combination of routes to the top of the 4th Elephant Buttress.
We began climbing 15 feet to the right of the start for Monster Woman. It was unprotected but moderate in difficulty up a right-facing dihedral, and I could place a good cam. A bit further I clipped an old 3/4 angle piton with a broken eye. From here, I went straight up through corners and discontinuous cracks and flakes until I got to a spot where I had to make a few balancy moves (the crux at 5.10b?) left and up to a finger crack. The remainder of the pitch was easy and finished just below the top. Walk off right to the top of the gully.
We grade this at probably 5.10b, 110 feet. A standard rack up to a #3 Camalot and a rack of nuts with a few long runners suffices to protect this route.