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Las Agujas (The Spires)
Routes Sorted
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Aguja Celo Rey S 
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Crack Test Dummies S 
Dirty Dreams S 
Easy Over S 
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Off the Notch S 
Pangea S 
Peek-a-boo Jesus S 
Sunnyside Up S 
Through the Looking Glass S 
Uber Machismo S 
Young Crankenstein S 

Aguja Celo Rey 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 200'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Ramon Ramirez and Club Celo Rey, 1964
Page Views: 7,659
Submitted By: Jimmy McAllan on Jan 30, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (94)
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Through the "eye" on pitch 1.

Description 

Classic.

P1: Start at a broken ramp just right of a small palm tree. The crux is at the bulge just before reaching the "eye". Continue up to the notch between the two towers on easy ground. 8 bolts and 110 feet.

P2: Climb the south arete of Chico Spire. Thin moves right on the corner go to some old Mexican iron rings right on the summit (modern rap anchors are 5 feet below). 6 bolts and about 70 feet.

Descent: Make one double rope (50m) rappel down the south face of Chico Spire. Or rap the way you came with a single 60m rope, but be careful downclimbing the last 10 feet of the first pitch.

Location 

Route is located on the North side of the Spires

Protection 

Bolts and some old Mexican iron.


Photos of Aguja Celo Rey Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Lucie on the Tyrolean traverse from the eastern ne...
Lucie on the Tyrolean traverse from the eastern ne...
Rock Climbing Photo: Alipio Loyola belaying Bruna Kajiya on the summit ...
Alipio Loyola belaying Bruna Kajiya on the summit ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Nick just below the crux of pitch 1.
Nick just below the crux of pitch 1.
Rock Climbing Photo: First Pitch Gnar Gnar!
First Pitch Gnar Gnar!
Rock Climbing Photo: Half way up the second pitch
Half way up the second pitch
Rock Climbing Photo: The summit
The summit
Rock Climbing Photo: Megan at the summit.  The Grande Spire just across...
Megan at the summit. The Grande Spire just across...
Rock Climbing Photo: one of the most exposed 5.10 sport routes around.....
one of the most exposed 5.10 sport routes around.....
Rock Climbing Photo: 2nd pitch
2nd pitch
Rock Climbing Photo: Photo Opp on the rappel. Through the looking Glass...
Photo Opp on the rappel. Through the looking Glass...
Rock Climbing Photo: sweet shadows
sweet shadows
Rock Climbing Photo: Robyn heading up the thin and exposed second pitch...
Robyn heading up the thin and exposed second pitch...
Rock Climbing Photo: summit...TWZ in the background
summit...TWZ in the background
Rock Climbing Photo: Cool summit!!
Cool summit!!

Comments on Aguja Celo Rey Add Comment
Show which comments
By Matt Richardson
Administrator
From: Longmont, CO
Apr 21, 2007
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

This route totally rocks! The top of the spire is incredible, as I recall, only about 2 people can fit (maybe only one). If the wind is up, then communication with your second sucks at the first belay. Bring some longer runners to avoid rope drag. Also, note that this route is 8 bolts for the 110 ft - as I recall, the bolt spacing is not even, and I would suggest a smaller cam for the first pitch before the crux (somebody else might have some better beta for this).
By Stich
From: Colorado Springs, Colorado
Apr 2, 2008

For pitch one, you might feel compelled to try the crack where the saddle between the spires forms, but stay on holds to the right and you'll have less trouble. Some of the old, hand-made pins remain from the Mexican first ascentionists.
By Michael G
Jan 7, 2009

I brought a set of stoppers for pitch one and placed two of them. Also, I found the crux to be the dark pod/offwidth directly behind "Nick" in the photo above. I cut out onto the face once the offwidth tapered off (maybe 4/5 feet above bolt?). I also clipped some bolts off the arete of the "looking glass" hole beneath the saddle before heading back onto the face. Seemed to be the logical line, and couldn't figure what other route those bolts could have been for. Great route, both pitches are stellar!
By Mike Holley
From: Boone, NC
Jan 10, 2012

Super Fun route to access the top of the Small Spire! The First pitch is slightly run out between higher bolts but if you bring a longer sling there is a thread through you can do to reduce it, regardless the climbing is over easy terrain. Second Pitch is unreal!! First time I climbed a spire and it was everything I imagined and more!! Go to the Summit proper for some exciting exposure, but watch out for the cactus!!!
By Sherie Lou
From: Washington, DC
Feb 6, 2016

1st pitch is harder than 5.9?...and run out. Definitely climb right at the crux and don't find yourself stuck inside the first/small needle's eye. To start, the moves up the ramp to 1st bolt are easy, but leave leader unprotected. If you use the bolt under the ramp, you'll have a total of 9 bolts.
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Mar 4, 2016

P1 somewhat awkward getting established between bolts 1 & 2 not particularly run out with option to sling a constriction up high (bring runner), see other contributor notes - they are helpful. P1 gets a single star for climbing but adds a star for the cool peek-a-boo slot then the eye which is neat. The belay is deluxe with great views, large area and bomber anchor. Consider cocktails.

P2 - hey we lucked out... 1pm beginning of March means the sun is high and already rotated to the west... shade was ours! The rock is very good, moves fun and you likely will be compelled to veer over the south side to check the exposure. The pitch climbs well but is micro in height, the top is nifty and worth bringing your partner up for the obligatory summit selfie. You also have a neat view of the dihedrals and other formations. Big enough for party of two.... beyond that... you're better off to just TR/slingshot from the notch.

Descent - unless you're going down the south side with two ropes you'll cross over the notch to the east spire. There you'll find a pretty dirty stance (beware of loose rocks) and another anchor. Snake or saddle your ropes if windy and you'll be down to the north-side base with a single 70m.

Two stars.. worth doing for the view, vintage hardware and the climbing of P2.

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